Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [442]
Getting There & Away
The parking lot at Ke′e Beach trailhead is quite large but fills quickly during the jammed summer months. Break-ins are rampant; some people advise leaving cars empty and unlocked to prevent damage such as window smashing. Campers, consider parking at the campground at Ha′ena Beach Park (Map) or storing your belongings elsewhere and catching a cab to the trailhead; try Kauai Taxi Company (246-9554).
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SOUTH SHORE
Tourists adore Po′ipu, and it’s no surprise why: sun, surf and sand. The quintessential elements of a beach vacation are guaranteed here, where the weather’s less rainy and the waves less changeable than on the North Shore. Since the 1970s, huge condos and hotels have mushroomed along the shore, spawning a critical mass of tourists that will either entertain or annoy you.
The South Shore also boasts two world-renowned botanical gardens, as well as the undeveloped Maha′ulepu Coast, where lithified sand-dune cliffs and pounding surf make for an unforgettable walk. What’s missing is a town center – or any town at all. Thus, you’re bound to stop in Koloa, a former plantation town that’s now the South Shore’s lively little commercial center.
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THIS AIN’T NO DISCO
The Kalalau Trail is hella Rugged (yes, with a capital R) and therefore it’s not for everyone. Being prepared is a tough call too, as you won’t want to pack too much but you will need to stay hydrated, prepped for rain, and you must take your trash out with you. You may see hikers with machetes, walkie-talkies, climbing rope and reef shoes; but even the trekkers with the most bad-ass gear should know not to expect a rescue by emergency responders; these precipices are to be taken seriously. Anyone with a police scanner can tell you ‘plenty story’ about the braggard from the mainland who was warned by friends/family/an onlooker but said something along the lines of these famous last words: ‘Naw, I’m from Colorado, this is nothing.’ Finally, mosquitoes here are bloodthirsty and the sun can really ravage, so always wear insect repellent and sunblock.
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KOLOA
pop 1940
On the South Shore, all roads lead to Koloa, which was a thriving plantation town until it withered after WWII, when sugar gave way to tourism. Today its quaint ‘Old West’ neighborhood contains a pleasant set of affordable shops and restaurants – a welcome complement to the budget-breaking selection in Po′ipu. The adjacent residential towns of Lawa′i (pop 1985) and Omao (pop 1220) are low-key, neighborly and blooming with foliage.
History
When William Hooper, an enterprising 24-year-old Bostonian, arrived on Kaua′i in 1835, he took advantage of two historical circumstances: the Polynesians’ introduction of sugarcane to the islands and Chinese immigrants’ knowledge of refining sugar. With financial backing from Honolulu businesspeople, he leased land in Koloa from the king and paid island ali′i (royalty, chiefs etc) a stipend to release commoners from their traditional work obligations. He then hired the Hawaiians as wage laborers and Koloa became Hawaii’s first plantation town.
Orientation & Information
From the west, Koloa Rd (Hwy 530), which runs between Lawa′i and Koloa, is the best way in and out. From Lihu′e, take the scenic Maluhia Rd (Hwy 520) through the enchanting Tree Tunnel.
Services are minimal:
First Hawaiian Bank (742-1642; 3506 Waikomo Rd) At the east end of town.
Post office (800-275-8777; 5485 Koloa Rd) Serves both Koloa and Po′ipu.
Sights
LAWAI INTERNATIONAL CENTER
Magical.