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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [443]

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Enchanting. Stirring. Such words are often used to describe this quiet spiritual site (639-4300; www.lawaicenter.org; 3381 Wawae Rd; call for schedule) in the Lawa′i Valley, northwest of Koloa and Po′ipu. Originally the site of a Hawaiian heiau, the site’s strong mana (spiritual essence) attracted future generations of worshippers, including Japanese plantation families since the late 1800s.

In 1904, these immigrants placed 88 miniature Shingon Buddhist shrines (about 2ft tall) along a steep hillside path to symbolize 88 pilgrimage shrines in Shikoku, Japan. For years, island pilgrims would journey here from as far as Hanalei and Kekaha. But the site was abandoned by the 1960s, and half of the shrines lay scattered in shards.

In the late 1980s, some volunteers formed a nonprofit group, acquired a 32-acre property and embarked on a backbreaking project to repair or rebuild the shrines. Today, all 88 are beautifully restored, and leisurely tours include a detailed history and trail walk. Despite the Buddhist shrines, the center is a nondenominational sanctuary for all cultures. Visits are allowed only during twice-monthly Sunday tours; call for details.

TREE TUNNEL

Driving from Lihu′e to Po′ipu, take Maluhia Rd (Hwy 520) not only for a shortcut but also to pass through the romantic Tree Tunnel, a mile-long canopy of towering swamp mahogany trees (a type of eucalyptus). Pineapple baron Walter McBryde planted the trees as a community project in 1911, when he had leftover trees after landscaping his estate at Kukuiolono (Click here).

KOLOA HISTORIC BUILDINGS

East of town, find the Koloa Jodo Mission (742-6735; 2480 Waikomo Rd; services 6pm Mon-Fri, 9:30am Sun), which follows Pure Land Buddhism, a nonmeditating form, popular in Japan since the 12th century. The Buddhist temple on the left is the original, which dates back to 1910, while the larger temple on the right is currently used for services.

St Raphael’s Catholic Church (742-1955; 3011 Hapa Rd), Kaua′i’s oldest Catholic church, is the burial site of some of Hawaii’s first Portuguese immigrants. The original church, built in 1854, was made of lava rock and coral mortar with walls 3ft thick – a type of construction visible in the ruins of the adjacent rectory. When the church was enlarged in 1936 it was plastered over, creating a more typical whitewashed appearance.

Activities

Obviously Koloa is landlocked, but it’s home to two excellent ocean-sports outfits.

DIVING

Fathom Five Divers (742-6991, 800-972-3078; www.fathomfive.com; 3450 Po′ipu Rd; shore dives $70-140, boat dives $120-330), the island’s best dive outfit, is run by a husband-and-wife team, Jeannette and George Thompson. They offer the whole range, from Ni′ihau boat dives ($345) to night dives to certification courses. Newbies can expect reassuring hand holding during their introductory shore dives. Groups max out at six and they avoid mixing skill levels. Call well in advance.

SNORKELING

The king of snorkel gear is Snorkel Bob’s (742-2206; www.snorkelbob.com; 3236 Po′ipu Rd; rental mask, snorkel & fins per week $9-35; 8am-5pm), which rents and sells enough styles and sizes to assure a good fit. If, after renting, you want to buy an item, your rental payment deflects part of the cost.

ATV

Kaua′i ATV (742-2734, 877-707-7088; www.kauaiatv.com; 5330 Koloa Rd; tours $125-175) commendably offers two-seater and four-seater bio-diesel vehicles for a reasonable upgrade of $10 per person. Therfore, we recommend these ATV tours only if you opt for the green machines over the gas-powered ones, which constitute most of their fleet. Riding in upcountry pastureland, you’re guaranteed to get dirty, whether merely dusty or soaked in mud. Use their loaner clothing.

Festivals & Events

In late July, Koloa Plantation Days Celebration (652-3217; www.koloaplantationdays.com), the South Shore’s biggest annual celebration, spans nine days of family fun with the gamut of attractions (many free), including a parade, block party, rodeo, craft fair, canoe race, golf tournament and guided walks.

Sleeping

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