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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [448]

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’s best dive sites, including Sheraton Caverns, a series of partially collapsed lava tubes 10ft or more in height, with shafts of glowing sunlight illuminating their dim interior; General Store, with sharks, octopuses, eels and the remains of an 1892 shipwreck; and Nukumoi Point (Click here), a shallow site and habitat for green sea turtles.

Dive boats and catamaran cruises usually depart from Kukui′ula Harbor, 0.5 miles east of Spouting Horn.

Seasport Divers (742-9303, 800-685-5889; www.seasportdivers.com; Po′ipu Plaza, 2827 Po′ipu Rd; 2-tank dive $115-145; check-in 7:30am & 12:45pm) leads a range of dives from shore or boat, including a three-tank dive to Ni′ihau ($265), offered only in summer. All dives are guided by instructor-level divemasters; any group with noncertified divers includes an additional instructor. Groups are limited to 18 but the count is typically eight to 12.

Consider nearby Fathom Five Divers (Click here), our top pick for diving tours.

KAYAKING

Outfitters Kaua′i (742-9667, 888-742-9887; www.outfitterskauai.com; Po′ipu Plaza, 2827-A Po′ipu Rd; reservations taken 8am-9pm) offers a sea-kayaking tour (per adult/child 12 to 14 $135/110); the eight-hour paddle makes a good training prelude to the grueling Na Pali voyage.

SURFING

Po′ipu is a popular spot for lessons because it’s got some killer breaks and year-round sun. Beware of large classes, though; four is maximum density. For lessons, we recommend the following outfits, which all meet at the beach:

Garden Island Surf School (652-4841; www.kauai-surfinglessons.com; 2hr lesson group/couple/private $75/120/150; lessons 8am, 10am, noon & 2pm) The lesson includes one hour with instructor and one hour free surfing. Four students per group; minimum age is eight for groups and five for privates.

Kaua′i Surf School (651-6032; www.kauaisurfschool.com; 2hr lesson group/private $75/175). With 90 minutes of teaching and 30 minutes of free practice, you get your money’s worth. A good outfit for kids, with a special one-hour private lesson for kids aged four to 12. Also offers multiday surf clinics and surf escort services.

Surf Lessons by Margo Oberg (332-6100, 639-0708; www.surfonkauai.com; 2hr lesson group/semiprivate/private $68/90/125) One of the longest-running surf schools on Kaua′i, this operation has a fine rep but classes can reach six.

Rentals are found at these shops:

Nukumoi Surf Company (742-8019; www.nukumoi.com; 2100 Ho′one Rd; soft-top board rental per hr/day/week $5/20/60, hard boards $7.50/30/80, bodyboards per day/week $5/15; 7:45am-6:30pm Mon-Sat, 10:45am-6pm Sun) Conveniently located right across from Po′ipu Beach Park.

Progressive Expressions (742-6041; 5420 Koloa Rd, Koloa; board rental per day/week $20/100; 9am-9pm) Koloa surf shop rents all types of boards, same price.

HORSEBACK RIDING

If you want a break from hoofin’ it yourself, you can hop on a horse at CJM Country Stables (742-6096; www.cjmstables.com; 2hr tours $98-125; tours 9:30am & 2pm Mon-Sat). The rides are the slow, nose-to-tail, follow-the-leader variety, so they’re safe but would bore experienced riders, who can arrange private rides.

GOLF

The economical Kiahuna Golf Club (742-9595; www.kiahunagolf.com; 2545 Kiahuna Plantation Dr; green fees incl cart before/after 3pm $95/65, club rental $40) is a relatively forgiving 18-hole, par-70 Robert Trent Jones Jr course. Established in 1983, this compact, inland course uses smaller targets and awkward stances to pose challenges.

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A COAST LIKE NO OTHER

The windswept Maha′ulepu Coast resembles no other on Kaua′i: lithified sand-dune cliffs, pounding surf and three pristine beaches still free from mass tourism. Known as Kaua′i’s last undeveloped accessible coast, it lies just east of Shipwreck Beach.

The best way to explore the coast is hiking the Maha′ulepu Heritage Trail (www.hikemahaulepu.org), a pleasant hike that runs for almost 4 miles from Shipwreck Beach to Ha′ula Beach (you can turn back at any point for a shorter, but still stunning, walk). To reach the trailhead, park in the Grand Hyatt

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