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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [449]

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lot at the end of Ainako St. From the beach, head east through the ironwood trees. Along the coast, you will pass spectacular cliffs of lithified sand dunes, tide pools in rocky coves and even the ruins of a heiau.

The Maha′ulepu coast comprises a string of beaches – Maha′ulepu Beach (Gillin’s Beach), Kawailoa Bay and Ha′ula Beach – from west to east. Waters are choppy and better suited for experienced swimmers than once-a-year tourists, but hiking is enticing year-round. Near Maha′ulepu Beach you’ll see the sole house on the entire coast, the Gillin Beach House (742-7561; www.gillinbeachhouse.com; per week from $3090), originally built in 1946 by Elbert Gillin, a civil engineer with the Koloa Sugar Plantation.

Kawailoa Bay is surrounded by sand dunes to the west and protected by jutting sea cliffs to the east. Windsurfers and kitesurfers skim across the surf here. Ironwood trees backing the beach make a pleasant spot for picnicking. Continue on until you reach Ha′ula Beach, a stunning curved bay with pounding, white-crested waves. The coastline is exposed, so come prepared for sun and wind.

If you must drive, go past the Grand Hyatt, proceed for 1.5 miles on the unpaved road and turn right where it dead-ends at a gate (7:30am-6pm, to 7pm summer). Continue past the gatehouse until you reach the beach parking area. Access hours are strictly enforced.

Two excellent resources are the Maha′ulepu Heritage Trail (www.hikemahaulepu.org) website and Kaua′i’s Geologic History: A Simplified Guide by Chuck Blay and Robert Siemers. Also see Malama Maha′ulepu (www.malama-mahaulepu.org), a nonprofit group working to preserve the area, which is owned by Steve Case, the cofounder of America Online.

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The South Shore’s jewel is the Po′ipu Bay Golf Course (742-8711, 800-858-6300; www.poipubaygolf.com; 2250 Ainako St; green fees incl cart nonguest/guest $220/150, club rental $50). This 18-hole, par-72 course adjacent to the Grand Hyatt covers 210 seaside acres. Rates drop at noon ($135) and again at 2:30pm ($80).

SPAS

When Anara Spa (742-1234; www.anaraspa.com; Grand Hyatt Kaua′i Resort & Spa, 1571 Po′ipu Rd; massage per hr $155-235, facials $165-225) was renovated in 2007, it was an extreme makeover, with the spa emerging as a 20,000 sq ft tropical fantasyland, with gardens and waterfalls to sooth the eyes while the face and body indulges in a splurge-worthy menu of delicious services. Access to the lap pool and fitness center is free with a 50-minute spa treatment.

Tours

Unless you’re as water-phobic as a cat, we recommend a snorkeling tour (Click here) and Click here) to maximize your cruise experience. But if you’re seeking a sunset tour, Capt Andy’s Sailing Adventures (335-6833, 800-535-0830; www.napali.com; Port Allen Marina Center, Waialo Rd; adult/child 2-12 $69/50) departs from Kukui′ula Harbor between 4pm and 5pm for a scenic two-hour cruise.

Festivals & Events

Prince Kuhio Celebration of the Arts (240-6369; http://princekuhio.wetpaint.com) Day-long celebration, in late March, to honor Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalaniana′ole, who was born in 1872 on the site of Prince Kuhio Park (Click here).

Garden Isle Artisan Fair (245-9021) When on Kaua′i, buy Kaua′i-made. At this triannual fair in mid-March, mid-August and mid-October, you’ll find handcrafted items, Hawaiian music and local grinds. Usually located opposite Po′ipu Beach Park.

Kaua′i Mokihana Festival Hula Competition (822-2166; www.mokihana.kauai.net) Three days of serious hula performances at the Grand Hyatt in late September, both kahiko (ancient) and ′auana (modern). At $5 to $10, it’s a must-see.

Hawaiiana Festival (240-6369; www.alohafestivals.com) Part of the Aloha Festival, this mid-October three-day event features Hawaiian crafts, demonstrations, hula and a luau.

New Year’s Eve Fireworks (742-7444; www.poipubeach.org) Free fireworks on the beach at Po′ipu Beach Park on December 31.

Sleeping

The majority of accommodations in Po′ipu are condos, which are available for all budget levels. Rates can vary depending on the owner or agency

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