Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [452]
MIDRANGE & TOP END
Plantation Gardens Restaurant & Bar (742-2121; www.pgrestaurant.com; Kiahuna Plantation, 2253 Po′ipu Rd; appetizers $9-14, mains $19-27; 5:30-9pm) Set in a historic plantation house, this restaurant is lovely without trying too hard. The menu is mercifully concise and features locally grown ingredients, kiawe (a relative of the mesquite tree) grilling for a rich, smoky flavor, and lots of fresh seafood. Lit by tiki torches at night, the setting is ideal for large gatherings.
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EYE OF THE STORM
Almost two decades after the Hurricane ′Iniki blasted the island, residents can still give blow-by-blow accounts of their survival on September 11, 1992. ′Iniki blew in with sustained winds of 145mph and gusts of 165mph or more (a weather-station meter in mountainous Koke′e broke off at 227mph). It snapped trees by the thousands and totally demolished 1420 homes (and swept over 60 out to sea). Another 5000 homes were severely damaged, while thousands more sustained minor damage. Most of the island lacked electricity for over a month, and some areas lacked power for up to three months. Thirty-foot waves washed away entire wings of beachfront hotels, particularly those in Po′ipu and Princeville.
During the immediate aftermath, residents were remarkably calm and law-abiding, despite the lack of power, radio or TV. Communities held parties to share and consume perishable food. Looting was minor and when grocers allowed affected residents to take what they needed, they insisted on paying.
Miraculously, only four people died, but the total value of the damage to the island was $1.8 billion (1992 USD). The tourism industry bounced back by the late 1990s and today is thriving. While locals notice the changed landscape, newcomers would never realize the havoc wreaked 15 years ago. Unfortunately a couple of Kaua′i’s native bird species have not been spotted since ′Iniki.
Because ′Iniki struck during daylight, many residents recorded the event in real time with camcorders. The best footage was compiled into an hour-long video ($24.95), which you can order at www.video-hawaii.com/iniki.html.
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Casa di Amici (742-1555; 2301 Nalo Rd; dinner mains $23-29; from 6pm) Often overlooked due to an obscure location, this restaurant is an unpretentious gem. The chef focuses on using the highest quality ingredients, from locally grown greens to black truffles from Italy to homemade sausage. The menu’s traditional Italian pastas and meats are joined by multicultural standouts such as the grilled miso-ginger ahi and paella risotto.
Naniwa (742-1661; Sheraton Kaua′i Resort, 2440 Ho′onani Rd; dinner mains $28-33, sushi $11-16; 5:30-9pm Tue-Sat) Despite the island’s sizable Japanese population, Japanese restaurants are woefully scarce. The only major sushi bar on the South Shore, Naniwa serves flawlessly fresh, impeccably presented sushi. Your wallet will take a hit, with nigiri (oval-shaped sushi) going for $11 per pair.
Beach House Restaurant (742-1424; www.the-beach-house.com; 5022 Lawa′i Rd; dinner mains $26-40; winter 5:30-9:30pm, summer 6-10pm) Overrated, perhaps, but the Beach House is the iconic spot for sunset dining and worth a splurge. Current Chef Todd Barrett’s specialties include macnut-crusted mahimahi and watermelon salad with gorgonzola cheese and just-picked Omao greens. Book well in advance.
Tidepools (742-6260; Grand Hyatt Kaua′i Resort & Spa, 1571 Po′ipu Rd; mains $28-40; 5:30-10pm) Surrounded by waterfalls and lagoons filled with koi, the Grand Hyatt’s signature restaurant is more romantic oasis than lively nightspot. The surprisingly brief menu presents decent but derivative examples of island fusion, from grilled peppered ahi with coconut-jasmine rice to grilled chicken breast with Okinawan sweet-potato purée. A serene ‘special occasion’ spot.
Roy’s Po′ipu Bar & Grill (742-5000; www.roysrestaurant.com; Po′ipu Shopping Village; mains $37-47; 5:30-9:30pm) Still iconic, still wildly popular, Roy’s continues to please the foodies. Signature