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Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [453]

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dishes include the melt-in-your-mouth misoyaki (miso-marinated) butterfish appetizer and the pesto-steamed ‘ono (white-fleshed wahoo) sizzled in cilantro-ginger-peanut oil. Expect a shopping-mall setting and notoriously high-decibel dining room.

For groceries, indie supermarket Kukui′ula Store (742-1601; Po′ipu Plaza, 2827 Po′ipu Rd; 8:30am-8:30pm Mon-Fri, to 6:30pm Sat & Sun) resembles a bodega from the outside, but stocks a good selection of basics and wholesome foods. For more selection, go to Koloa’s grocers and fish market.

Drinking & Entertainment

BARS

Point (742-1661; Sheraton Kaua′i Resort; 11am-midnight, closed lunch Mon & Tue) An informal hangout for sunset viewing and people-watching, this bar mixes a great mojito ($9.50 to $11.50) or pours from the tap. For lunch and dinner, cut costs by eating from the excellent menu of appetizers and sandwiches.

Stevenson’s Library (742-1234, 800-554-9288; Grand Hyatt Kaua′i Resort & Spa; 1571 Po′ipu Rd; 6pm-midnight) Resembling a too-cool-for-you gentleman’s club, this handsome lounge is rather incongruous to the island scene but serves good (if pricey) sushi, desserts and drinks. Kids are permitted until 9pm, meaning that a romper-room vibe occasionally prevails till then. Highlights include the gleaming 27ft koa-wood bar and live jazz from 8pm to 10pm.

Seaview Terrace (742-1234, 800-554-9288; Grand Hyatt Kaua′i Resort & Spa; 1571 Po′ipu Rd; 4:30-8:30pm) For free resort ‘entertainment,’ arrive before sunset on Tuesday, Friday or Saturday for a torch-lighting ceremony and either Hawaiian music or na keiki (children’s) hula shows. Call for start time, which varies by season.

LUAU

Between the two, the Sheraton’s show gives you more for your money. Also consider driving to Lihu′e for Kilohana Plantation’s new and different Luau Kalamaku (Click here).

Surf to Sunset Luau (742-8205; www.sheraton-kauai.com; Sheraton Kaua′i Resort, 2440 Ho′onani Rd; adult/child 6-12 $75/37.50; check-in 6pm Fri) We rate the Sheraton’s ‘Surf to Sunset’ luau A (excellent) for oceanfront setting and B (good) for the food and show, which is the standard Polynesian revue. For a commercial luau, the audience size is small at 200 to 300. Beware: the humorous emcee expects lots of audience participation.

Havaiki Nui Luau (240-6456; www.grandhyattkauailuau.com; Grand Hyatt Kaua′i Resort & Spa, 1571 Po′ipu Rd; adult/junior 13-20/child 5-12/under 5 $94/84/57/free; check-in 5:15pm Sun & Thu) The Havaiki Nui Luau is a well-oiled production befitting the Grand Hyatt setting, but the price is steep, especially if rain forces the show indoors.

Getting There & Around

To get here from Lihu′e, the quickest way is to exit on Maluhia Rd. Once in Po′ipu, you’ll see that it’s a sprawled-out town, necessitating a car to go anywhere besides the beach. Navigating is easy, with just two main roads: Po′ipu Rd along eastern Po′ipu and Lawa′i Rd along western Po′ipu. Most attractions, including Po′ipu Beach Park, have free parking lots.

The Kaua′i Bus (Click here) runs through Koloa and into Po′ipu, stopping along Po′ipu Rd at Ho′owili Rd (the turnoff to Po′ipu Beach Park). It’s an option to get here from other towns but a limited in-town mode.

Because Po′ipu lacks a town center, destinations are scattered. Walking is viable along the main roads and along the beaches, but the vibe is more suburbia than surf town.


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KALAHEO

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From the highway, Kalaheo is a one-stoplight cluster of eateries and little else. But along the backroads, this neighborly town offers peaceful accommodations away from the tourist crowd. If you plan to hike at Waimea Canyon and Koke′e State Parks but also want easy access to Po′ipu beaches, Kalaheo’s central location is ideal.

The town’s post office and handful of restaurants are clustered around the intersection of Kaumuali′i Hwy and Papalina Rd.

Sights

KUKUIOLONO PARK

Unless you stay in Kalaheo, you would miss this little park (6:30am-6:30pm), which offers a nine-hole golf course (opposite), modest Japanese garden, sweeping views and grassy grounds

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