Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [456]
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DETOUR: PU′U ROAD SCENIC DRIVE
While the epic journeys along the North Shore and up to Waimea Canyon rank as Kaua′i’s top two scenic drives, the South Shore upcountry might surprise you. Pu′u Road in Kalaheo makes a loop past bucolic ranches, generations-old trees and grassy pastureland – with the great Pacific as a fitting backdrop. The lush countryside is a surprise after the dry, red-dirt terrain along the highway.
Pu′u Rd intersects Papalina Dr in two places (either can be your starting point). It’s a winding, one-lane country road with blind curves, so go slow and honk on the hairpins.
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Diving
Mana Divers (335-0881; www.manadivers.com; Bay 3, Port Allen Boat Harbour, 4310 Waialo Rd) Offers boat dives, night dives and dive charters to Ni′ihau, Lehua Rock and Mana Crack during the months of May through September. It also offers open-water certification courses.
SNORKELING & WHALE WATCHING
The majority of Na Pali tours leave from Port Allen and, depending on the season, offer a variety of ways in which to enjoy this spectacular coastline, from snorkeling in summer to whale watching in winter.
You’ll either go by Zodiac (raft) or catamaran the former of which offers little respite from the waves and sun, the latter of which offers shaded benches, toilet, and, of course, an unending supply of drinks and pupu. Regardless of your choice, take the information given by guides with a grain of salt – many tell tales of cannibalism and push inaccuracies about the ali′i in order to sensationalise the experience.
Holoholo Charters (335-0815, 800-848-6130; www.holoholocharters.com; Port Allen Marina Center, Waialo Rd; adult/5 to 12yr $135/95; 6am-8pm) is among the best for delivering on its promises of sea-cave jaunts, honu sightings and augmented cultural lore. The two-hour sunset cruise offers the best deal, at $79. Save 10% by booking online.
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DISCARDED TREASURES
Blue glass fishing buoys, which used to be attached to fish nets, are prized ‘finds’ on Kaua′i. Used by Japanese fisherman after WWII, they occasionally wash up on Hawaiian shores. Storms and time separated the buoys from the nets. Now rare, as plastics and other materials have made the glass obsolete, the buoys that wash ashore are prized on Kaua′i and used as garden and home decor around the island, especially in fishing homes.
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Another favourite is Hawaiian-owned Catamaran Kahanu (645-6176, 888-213-7711; www.catamarankahanu.com; Port Allen Marina Center, Waialo Rd; 5hr tour adult/child 4-11 $122/80, 3½hr tour $80/60), which includes Hawaiian trades into its tour, thanks to basket-weaving demonstrations and making ‘fishing lines’ from ti (native plant) leaves and coconut fiber.
Capt Andy’s Sailing Adventures (335-6833, 800-535-0830; www.napali.com; Port Allen Marina Center, Waialo Rd; 5hr snorkeling trip adult/child 2-12 $139/99) heads to Na Pali and prices often drop by $10 online. Plan on getting a little wet, a little cold and also a little sun along the way. The crew will be on the lookout for marine life, such as flying fish, sea turtles, dolphins and whales, depending on the time of year.
Blue Dolphin Charters (335-5553, 877-511-1311; www.kauaiboats.com; Port Allen Marina Center, Waialo Rd; internet/regular booking $175/196) offers a seven-hour snorkeling tour or five-hour Na Pali trip. For an additional $35, they’ll take you on a one-tank dive – even if it’s your first time.
Kaua′i Sea Tours (826-7254, 800-733-7997; www.kauaiseatours.com; Aka′ula St, Port Allen) lets you opt for the summer Na Pali tour by catamaran (adult/child from $139/99) or the rougher, three-hour tour by raft (internet/regular adult from $99/109, child $69/73), or a three- to four-hour sightseeing tour of Na Pali or a five-hour dinner snorkeling tour (internet/regular from $139/148, teen $129/137, child $99/109).