Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [457]
If a more rugged experience is your thing, then a Zodiac raft tour might be for you; try Captain Zodiac Raft Adventures (335-6833, 800-535-0830; www.napali.com; Port Allen Marina Center, Waialo Rd; adult/child $129/89), Captain Andy’s sister outfit, which offers a 5½-hour tour year-round.
Shopping
Kauai Chocolate Company (335-0448; www.kauaichocolate.com; 4341 Waialo Rd; 11am-5pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) Save some room for at least one of these prized, exotic treats, whether it’s a mouth-watering ganache-filled truffle or a passion-fruit sugar-encrusted pastille.
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HANAPEPE
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Proclaimed by its own as ‘Kaua′i’s biggest little town,’ Hanapepe carries a well-branded character that belies its less-than-crowded population. Here you’ll find some of the most local grinds on the island, hailing from plantation days and a homecooked tradition. Come with a thin wallet and an empty stomach and you’ll do just fine. Near Salt Pond Beach Park families continue the tradition of salt panning in basins, just as their ancestors did hundreds of years ago. The spiritual task of collecting reddish, large crystals of Hawaiian salt means the local seasoning (which cannot be bought) continues to be a source of local pride.
History
Like most river valleys Hanapepe was host to a thriving Native Hawaiian community and, like most places, that tradition was supplanted. Hanapepe was once the main port town of the island and a bustling economic center until the new harbour was built in Lihu′e. Hanapepe was downsized, but survived and found renewed vitality in the restoration of its old main street and transformation by the Friday Night Art Walk.
Orientation & Information
Veer mauka onto Hanapepe Rd at the ‘Kaua′i’s Biggest Little Town’ sign.
American Savings Bank (335-3118; 4548 Kona Rd)
Bank of Hawaii (335-5021; 3764 Hanapepe Rd) On the western end of Hanapepe Rd.
Sights & Activities
SALT POND BEACH PARK
Named for its saltwater flats where seawater is drained and harvested for salt, this white-sand beach is great for lounging about, with full facilities, camping access and lifeguards. Popular for local families, it also serves as the end and celebration of the Expedia World Challenge, which draws some of the most skilled one-man outrigger canoers from around the globe.
If you’re toting children, a potentially quick and fun stop is Kaua′i Cookie Company (335-5003 1-3529 Kaumuali′I Hwy, Ste A), an island hallmark. Kona coffee and chocolate chip are the standard faves. Find it across from Omoide Bakery & Wong’s Chinese Deli.
Though the timing might be tricky, if the stars align hours-wise, a fail-safe child-pleaser is Sparky’s Peace Garden, Storybook Theatre (335-0712; 3814 Hanapepe Rd; www.storybook.org; vary), as a quick stop at this multiuse theatre and interactive classroom offers distraction and a change of scenery. Call ahead, as hours vary.
FLYING
For a real adrenaline rush, take an ultralight lesson with Birds in Paradise (822-5309; www.birdsinparadise.com; Burns Field, Puolo Rd; 50min/1½hr lesson $135/335). You can also do a round-the-island lesson on one of these powered hang gliders for $300. Take the road for Salt Pond Beach Park to reach the airport.
TOURS
Find a copy of Hanapepe’s Walking Tour Map ($2), which describes the town’s historic buildings. Look for the Swinging Bridge landmark, which crosses the Hanapepe River. Its funky old predecessor fell victim to ′Iniki, but thanks to a community-wide effort this new bridge was erected in 1996.
HELICOPTER RIDES
Inter-island Helicopters (335-5009, 800-656-5009; www.interislandhelicopters.com; 1-3410 Kaumuali′i Hwy; regular/waterfall flights $260/$355) offers door-free flights over the Westside, providing views that rival some of the most rugged found; its flight record is less than perfect, however.
Sleeping
Though there aren’t any hotels to speak of, Salt Pond Beach Park offers convenient camping. Click here for permit information.
Westside Dwelling (652-9900; apt $80) It’s not a vacation rental by any means – it’s more like borrowing