Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [463]
Waimea Theater (338-0282; 9691 Kaumuali′i Hwy; 7:30pm Wed-Sun) Perfect for a rainy day or early evening reprieve from the sun and sea. Kaua′i is a little behind with the new releases, but as this is one of two functioning theaters on the island, so it’s much appreciated. This is also a venue for the Hawaii International Film Festival (www.hiff.org).
Shopping
West Kaua′i Craft Fair (Kaumuali′i Hwy; 9am-4pm) Just near the entrance to the Old Sugar Mill you’ll find Swarovski-crystal Limoges-inspired pillboxes, koa-wood bowls, Ni′ihau-shell leis, local honeys, malasadas, pineapples, longan, starfruit, banana, papaya and lychee.
Aunty Lilikoi Passion Fruit Products (866-545-4564; www.auntylilikoi.com; 9875 Waimea Rd; condiments per 10oz $5; 10am-5pm) In 2008 Aunty Lilikoi did it again, taking the gold medal in the Napa Valley International Mustard Competition for her liliko′i-wasabi mustard, making it clear that if it’s a product with liliko′i, Aunty’s got it down. Find something for almost any occasion: liliko′i syrup (great for banana pancakes), liliko′i massage oil (great for honeymooners) and the tasty liliko′i chap stick (great for après surf).
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SHAVE ICE: WHAT’s IN A NAME?
Ah, the drama behind the shave-ice shops that bear the name ‘Jo-Jo.’ In Waimea, there are two Jo-Jo’s businesses, and both claim ‘original’ status, but for different reasons. To complicate matters, both are across the street from Waimea High School (the one owned by Aunty Jo-Jo, which we prefer, is closer to the ocean).
As with any feud, there are differing versions of events. A ‘somewhere-in’the-middle’ version of the tale goes something like this: in the 1990s, Aunty Jo-Jo sold her wildly popular, seven-year-old shave ice shop (known as ‘Jo-Jo’s Clubhouse’) to another family. The family bought the shop largely because of the success borne of the household name ‘Aunty Jo Jo’ had created. Over time, locals began to complain that Jo-Jo’s Original Shave Ice (635-7615; 9740 Kaumuali′i Hwy; shave ice $2-4; 10am-6pm) just wasn’t the same (probably due to the fact that the new owners hadn’t been given all the old recipes – not for the delectable haupia topping, let alone the homemade syrups). Among locals, popularity has dwindled, although tourists still flock to this ‘original’ Jo-Jo’s.
In 2007, Aunty Jo-Jo opened a new shop (catty-corner from her old digs), Jo-Jo’s Anuenue Shave Ice & Treats (338-9963; 4491 Pokole Rd; shave ice $4-8; 11am-5pm), which peeved the people who bought her namesake buisness nearby, although they couldn’t produce the contract that they claim includes a noncompete clause. That, coupled with the fact that patrons were becoming annoyed at the new owners’ less-than-steadfast dedication toward maintaining a ‘local’ menu (for example, they seem to be perpetually ‘out’ of their halo-halo ingredients – a Hawaii shave ice staple) and that they’re a haole-run business attempting local grinds, hasn’t helped their odds with residents so far.
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KEKAHA
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There’s no town center in Kekaha (home to many military families), but Kekaha Beach Park offers one of the most beautiful sunsets on the island. If you’re looking for a town with a scenic beach near the base of Waimea Canyon, this is nice. It is, however, off the beaten track and too remote for some.
Kaumuali′i Hwy borders the coastline while Kekaha Rd (Hwy 50), the main drag, lies parallel and a few blocks inland. All you’ll find in town are a post office and a couple of stores. At its eastern end, Kekaha Rd and Kaumuali′i Hwy meet near the Kikiaola Small Boat Harbor, a state harbour with a launch ramp.
In an area known for its unrelenting sun and vast beaches, the Westside’s Kekaha Beach Park is no exception. Just west of Kekaha town, this long beach is ideal for running, walking or beachcombing. Before jumping in, find a lifeguard