Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [464]
Sleeping
For more lodging listings, see Kekaha Oceanside (www.kekahaoceansidekauai.com).
BUDGET & MIDRANGE
Mindy’s Guesthouse (337-9275; 8842 Kekaha Rd; s/d $75/85; ) Adorable, clean and featuring its own private deck – Mindy’s is a steal for the price. A 2nd-storey apartment with a full bed, wi-fi and large kitchen feels spacious and open. Though there’s no air conditioning, it’s got ceiling fans throughout. The price includes fruit and coffee in the morning.
Boathouse Guesthouse (332-9744; www.seakauai.com; 4518A Nene St; r $85) Within walking distance of Kekaha Beach, the Boathouse is much like staying in the guesthouse of your favourite (and clean) neighbours. Though a studio, it feels spacious and has its own covered lanai, kitchenette, king bed and TV. Ideal for one person or couple, with a washer-dryer on-site.
Hale Puka ′Ana B&B (652-6852; 8240A Elepaio Rd; www.kekahakauaisunset.com; ste $169-229; ) There are three choices here: the high end Ali′i Suite ($229 plus tax) has ocean views, a private lanai, cherrywood and bamboo-inspired fixtures; the Hoku Suite ($199 plus tax) also has ocean views, but is smaller; the Ku′uipo Suite ($169 plus tax) is on the ground floor. Included breakfasts range from healthy (fresh fruit) to guilty pleasure (bacon and egg on a croissant) with coffee, tea and juice.
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BARKING SANDS
Between Kekaha Beach Park and Polihale State Park, the beach stretches for approximately 15 miles. However, since the September 11, 2001 terrorist attacks, consistent public access has waned, as it is home to the US navy base at Barking Sands Pacific Missile Range Facility (PMRF; general information 335-4229, beach access 335-4111). The missile-range facility at Barking Sands provides the aboveground link to a sophisticated sonar network that tracks more than 1000 sq miles of the Pacific. Established during WWII, it’s been developed into the world’s largest underwater listening device.
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POLIHALE BEACH PARK
A rugged access road and inconsistent weather have made this state park somewhat of a headache for the Department of Land & Natural Resources, which closed off the beach for several months in 2008 and consequently prohibited camping, after flooding created potential health risks.
There aren’t any car-rental vendors who offer insurance for visitors to drive the 5-mile-long dirt road that accesses the park from Mana village off Kaumuali‘i Hwy, another snag in the debate over universal access rights to this surfing haven. Locals threatened to protest when a gate was put up to keep visitors out last year, claiming they know the area better than nonresidents and should therefore be allowed access.
Whether you decide to drive for a day trip or more, it’s worth remembering that camping is, at times, allowed with a permit, although the entryway, toilet and shower facilities access are inconsistent – and finding a ride back should your rental transport fail is risky.
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WAIMEA CANYON STATE PARK
Of all Kaua′i’s unique wonders, none can touch Waimea Canyon for utter grandeur. While one expects to find tropical beaches and gardens here, few expect a gargantuan chasm of ancient lava rock, 13 miles long and 2500ft deep to the riverbed (or 3700ft above sea level). Flowing through the canyon is the Waimea River, Kaua′i’s longest, which is fed by three eastern tributaries that bring reddish-brown waters from the mountaintop bog, Alaka′i Swamp.
Waimea Canyon was formed when Kaua′i’s original shield volcano, Wai′ale′ale, slumped along an ancient fault line, creating a sharp east-facing line of cliffs. Then another shield volcano, Lihu′e, developed the island’s east side, producing new lava flows that ponded against the cliffs. Thus the western canyon walls are taller, thinner and more eroded – a