Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [467]
The expansive Koke′e State Park is a playground to those who revere the environment. Home to inspirational views, it also offers an abundance of plant life and animals. You’ll also enjoy some reprieve from the sun and no doubt the microclimates will leave you paying attention to the shifts in ambient air.
In ancient times, only Hawaiian bird catchers resided up in this part of the island. The trail that once ran down the cliffs from Koke′e (ko-keh-eh) to Kalalau Valley on the Na Pali Coast is extraordinarily steep, and has taken the life of at least one Western trekker. Though one of the park’s locally revered charms is its choppy, almost impossible 4WD roads, the state has been working (despite misgivings by many Kaua′i residents) to pave much of Koke′e. Advocates against this decision have argued it would rob the area of its reclusively rugged character.
Another potential moneymaker (of equally controversial status) is the state’s plan to further modernize Koke′e by adding a helicopter landing pad, which would, in turn, increase air-tourism revenues.
Orientation & Information
This park’s boundary starts beyond the Pu′u Hinahina Lookout. After the 15-mile marker, you’ll pass a brief stretch of park cabins, restaurant, museum and campground.
The helpful people at the Koke′e Museum sell inexpensive trail maps and provide basic information on trail conditions; you can also call them for real-time mountain weather reports (335-9975).
Remember, the nearest place for provisions and gas is Waimea, 15 miles away.
Dangers & Annoyances
All of the suggestions listed for Waimea Canyon State Park (Click here) apply. Further, the higher elevation produces a cooler and wetter climate, so take appropriate attire.
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CAMPING IN KOKE′E
Even though it’s Hawaii, don’t be fooled into thinking you’ll be warm all the time. Koke′e campgrounds are at an elevation of almost 4000ft, and nights are cold. Take a sleeping bag, waterproof jacket, change of warm clothing, extra socks and hiking shoes (instead of sneakers). Click here for further details on the camping options.
The most accessible camping area is the Koke′e State Park Campground, which is north of the meadow, just a few minutes’ walk from Koke′e Lodge. The campsites sit in a grassy area beside the woods, (perfect for laying out a blanket and taking a nap) along with picnic tables, drinking water, rest rooms and showers. Further off the main track, Kawaikoi and Sugi Grove campgrounds are about 4 miles east of Koke′e Lodge, off the 4WD-only Camp 10–Mohihi Rd in the forest reserve adjacent to the state park. Each campground has pit toilets, picnic shelters and fire pits. There’s no water source, so you’ll need to bring your own or treat the stream water. These forest-reserve campgrounds have a three-night maximum stay and require camping permits (free) in advance from the Division of Forestry & Wildlife.
The Kawaikoi campground sits on a well-maintained 3.5-acre grassy field, and it is recommended if you are camping in a large group (ie 10 or more). The Sugi Grove site is picturesque, under Sugi trees (commonly called a pine but actually a cedar), a fragrant softwood native to Japan. This site is shaded, making it ideal during hot summer months, and it is closer to Kawaikoi stream.
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Sights
KOKE′E MUSEUM
At this museum (335-9975; www.kokee.org; entry by donation $1; 10am-4pm) you’ll find detailed topographical maps, local historical photographs and a tribute to the late photographer and educator David Boynton (and contributor to Lonely Planet), who died in 2007 after he was hiking along a cliff trail to one of his most cherished spots on the Na Pali coastline.
You also can obtain a brochure for the short nature trail out back. It offers interpretive information corresponding to the trail’s numbered plants and trees, including many native species. You’ll probably notice in front an array of chickens who have in the past decade polluted the pristine Koke′e mornings with noise. Please don’t feed them.
KALALAU LOOKOUTS
Look for