Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [468]
Hope for a clear day for ideal views, but know that even a rainy day can make for some settling clouds that could later disappear – followed by powerful waterfalls, and, of course, rainbows.
Though it might be hard to imagine as the terrain is so extreme, as late as the 1920s Kalalau Valley was home to many residents – who farmed rice there, no less.
The only way into the valley nowadays is along the coastal Kalalau Trail (Click here) from Ha′ena on the North Shore or by kayak (Click here).
The paved road continues another mile to Pu′u o Kila Lookout, where it dead-ends at a parking lot. This road faces periodic closings.
Hiking
Generally speaking, Koke′e is unspoiled. Its sheer size might make it a bit challenging to nail down where you want to start. Know that if you want to avoid hunters (and their dogs) it’s best to opt for trails like Alaka′i Swamp or the Cliff Trail to Waipo′o Falls; though those might have some other hikers on it, they’re still relatively remote. Koke′e boasts 45 miles of trails that range from delving deep into the rain forest or merely skimming the perimeter, with views that can cause a vertiginous reaction in even the most avid mountain-sport enthusiasts.
Trekking around Koke′e offers a rare view at an abundance of endemic species of wildlife and plants, including the largest population of Kaua′i’s native fern, the fragrant laua′e, alluded to in many of the island’s chants and traditions. Also here you might see some of Kaua′i’s rare and endangered native forest birds.
The starting point for several scenic hikes, Halemanu Rd is just north of the 14-mile marker on Waimea Canyon Dr. Whether or not the road is passable in a non-4WD vehicle depends on recent rainfall. Note that many rental-car agreements are null and void when off-roading.
During summer weekends, trained volunteers lead Wonder Walks (nominal donation; Jun-Sep), guided hikes on various trails at Waimea Canyon and Koke′e State Parks. Contact the museum (335-9975; www.kokee.org) for schedules and reservations.
CLIFF & CANYON TRAILS
The Cliff Trail (0.1 miles), is a perfect intro to the canyon’s vast views. Being short, it’s a relatively easy walk for the rewarding Waimea Canyon views it offers.
The Canyon Trail (1.8 miles) continues from there; you’ll go down a semisteep forest trail, a grove, a lugelike tunnel that opens up to a vast, red-dirt promontory with cliffs to one side and charming log-steps to guide you further. Shortly thereafter it takes some steep finagling to get to Waipo′o Falls. If that’s too much, you can always turn back around here. To get to the trailhead, walk down Halemanu Rd for just over 0.5 miles. Keeping Halemanu Stream to your left, ignore a hunting trail-of-use on the right. Then turn right onto the footpath leading to both the Cliff and Canyon Trails. At the next junction, the Cliff Trail veers right and wanders for less than 0.25 miles uphill to the Cliff Viewpoint.
For the Canyon Trail, backtrack to the previous junction. Note to avoid holding onto any foliage for stability. Otherwise, after hopping boulders across the stream, follow the trail to Kumuwela Ridge at the canyon rim. The trail ends at Kumuwela Lookout, where you can rest at a picnic table before backtracking to Halemanu Rd.
Black Pipe Trail
To vary your return from Canyon Trail, make a right at the intersection of Black Pipe Trail and Canyon Trail at the top of the switchback where you leave the canyon rim. The trail ends at the 4WD-only Halemanu Rd, where you walk back to the Canyon trailhead.
Halemanu-Koke′e Trail
Another trail off Halemanu Rd, which starts further down the road than the Cliff and Canyon Trails, is Halemanu-Koke′e Trail (1.25 miles). An easy recreational nature trail, it passes through a native forest of koa and ohia trees, which provide a habitat for native birds. One of the common plants found on this trail is banana poka, a member of the passion-fruit family and an invasive pest.