Hawaii - Jeff Campbell [469]
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ALAKA′I SWAMP
A sort of soggy paradise, nothing really provides that out-of-the-ordinary experience the way a hike along the Alaka′i Swamp, designated a wilderness preserve in 1964, does. Almost the entire trail is linked with wood planks, to help encourage use of the approved trail and to discourage off-trail trekking. The Department of Land & Natural Resources’ Forestry & Wildlife Division started laying planks around 1989 – a time-consuming (and crazy, according to some) process that was delayed when Hurricane ′Iniki hit in 1992. Today the project continues, with a plan to cover more of the Pihea Trail.
You’ll traverse truly fantastic terrain on this hike – misty bogs where plants will dwarf you. On a clear day, look for outstanding views of the Wainiha Valley and whales breaching in the ocean in the distance. If it’s raining, don’t fret: search for rainbows, enjoy the mist and respect the area by avoiding loud talking with your fellow hikers. This is a spiritual place: Queen Emma was said to have been so moved by tales from the Alaka′i she ventured there, only to chant in reverence during the sojourn.
The Kaua′i ′o′o, the last of four species of Hawaiian honey eaters, was thought to be extinct until a nest with two chicks was discovered in Alaka′i Swamp in 1971. Sadly, the call of the ′o′o – that of a single male – was last heard in 1987.
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AWA′AWAPUHI & NU′ALOLO CLIFFS
These trails offer the best of the best. The Awa′awapuhi Trail (3.25 miles) and the more challenging Nu′alolo Trail (3.75 miles) afford views along 2000ft cliffs. Perhaps nowhere is more exhilarating (and vertigo-inducing) than the spot where the trails connect – the Nu′alolo Cliffs Trail (2 miles) has points where you may feel more of an acrobat than a hiker! The Nu′alolo Cliffs Trail connects to the Nu′alolo Trail near the 3.25-mile mark and to the Awa′awapuhi Trail just short of the 3-mile mark.
If you’re undecided as to which trail to take, the Awa′awapuhi Trail is much less technical – though there are some steep steps where you might find yourself hugging a tree. At the end you’ll reach a breathtaking view of the cliffs below (much like the ‘Cliffs of Insanity’ featured in The Princess Bride).
To be sure, the Nu′alolo Cliff Trail is steeper than Awa′awapuhi Trail, though arguably each requires the same amount of endurance. To do this 11-mile hike as a loop, begin with the Nu′alolo Trail (trailhead is just south of Koke′e Museum) and hike to the bottom of the ridge and look for a sign that says ‘Nu′alolo Cliff Trail.’ Follow that right, scaling rocks and cutting through tall, eye-level grass, back up through several switchbacks, up through a ridge until it intersects with the Awa′awapuhi Trail, another signed intersection. Make a right following the ′Awa′awapuhi Trailhead on Koke′e Rd. Turn right and walk alongside of Koke′e Rd back to Nu′alolo Trailhead roughly 0.75 mile.
PIHEA TRAIL TO ALAKA′I SWAMP TRAIL
This 6-mile round-trip trek begins at Pu′u o Kila Lookout. A mere 1 mile in and you’ll see the Pihea Lookout. Past the lookout and a short scramble downhill the boardwalk begins. After another 1.5 miles you will come to a crossing with the Alaka′i Swamp Trail. A left at this crossing will put you on that trail to the Kilohana Lookout. Continuing straight on the Pihea Trail will take to you the Kawaikoi campground along the Kawaikoi stream. Most hikers start on the Pihea Trail because the trailhead is accessible by the paved road to Pu′u o Kila Lookout; however, sometimes this road is closed. For another trailhead, begin at the Alaka′i Swamp Trail starting point (see opposite). The trails are well maintained, with mile markers and signs.
Note: The stretch between Alaka′i Crossing and Kilohana Lookout includes hundreds of steps, which can be hell on your knees.
ALAKA′I SWAMP TRAIL
The Alaka′i Swamp trailhead begins