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Heat the coals in the grill until red hot and then allow them to cool. Grease the rack and then place the ears of corn on it. Cook the ears for 5 to 7 minutes, turning them so that they are slightly charred but not burned on all sides. Serve immediately.

Son of a Gun Stew

Son of a Gun Stew was a cowboy favorite that used the less-noble parts of the animal. It was a treat for range riders, as it was served only after an animal was freshly slaughtered.

Serves 8

1 pound beef neck meat, cut in small pieces

1 beef heart, chopped

1 set beef brains

¼ pound marrow gut, cut in small pieces

⅓ pound calves liver, chopped

1 teaspoon salt

3 cloves garlic, minced

5 jalapeños, stemmed, seeded, and chopped

Water

4 tablespoons tomato paste

6 cups beef broth

Salt and pepper to taste

Cover the first eight ingredients with water in a large stockpot. Simmer for 6 to 7 hours, until meat is done. Check the stew occasionally and add water if necessary.

Stir the tomato paste into the beef broth and add to pot. Bring to a simmer for 10 minutes. Check seasonings and add salt and pepper if desired.

—Adapted from Texas Cooking Online, http://www/texascooking.com/recipes/sonofagun_stew.htm

Watermelon-Rind Pickles

This classic Southern condiment reminds of the ingenuity of those who made something from nothing. This recipe makes pickles similar to those served by my grandmother from Virginia, Grandma Jones.

Makes approximately 4 pints

9 cups watermelon rind, cut into 1-inch cubes

½ cup salt

2 quarts plus 2 cups water

1¾ cups cider vinegar

½ cup balsamic vinegar

2 cups dark brown sugar

1 lemon, sliced thin

2 sticks cinnamon, crushed

1 teaspoon whole cloves

2 teaspoons cracked allspice

Prepare the watermelon rind by removing the green skin and all but a small amount of the red meat. Place the prepared rind in a large bowl and soak it overnight in a brine prepared from the salt and 2 quarts of water.

When ready to make the pickles, drain the watermelon, wash it with fresh water, and drain it again. Place the rind in a large nonreactive saucepan, cover it with water, and simmer it for 15 minutes, or until it is fork-tender. Place the remaining ingredients, including the 2 cups of water, into a second nonreactive saucepan and bring them to a boil. Then lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, or until you have a thin syrup.

Drain the watermelon rind, add it to the syrup, and continue to simmer until the rind becomes translucent. Place the rind pieces in hot sterilized jars, cover them with the unstrained syrup, and seal them according to proper canning procedures. The pickles will keep for several months, if they last that long.

—The Martha’s Vineyard Table

Pigs’ Feet

Pigs’ feet don’t have much meat, just bone and gristle, but sucking the bits of meat off the bones and savoring the chewy skin is a treat for those who enjoy this traditional African American delicacy.

Serves 4 to 6

6 to 8 whole pigs’ feet, split

2 bay leaves

6 peppercorns, cracked

½ cup cider vinegar

Hot sauce to taste

With a sharp knife, scrape the pigs’ feet to remove all hair. (Recalcitrant hairs should be removed by singeing or by cutting off the piece of skin.) Place the pigs’ feet in a large stockpot, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Allow the feet to boil for 3 to 5 minutes, then pour off the water and the scum that has accumulated. Rinse the feet and the pot. Replace the feet in the pot and cover them with water again. Add the bay leaves, peppercorns, and cider vinegar. Bring the liquid to a boil, then lower the heat and cook the feet for 2½ to 3 hours, or until the meat begins to fall off the bone. Remove the pigs’ feet, drain them, place them on a platter, and serve hot, accompanied by the hot sauce of your choice.

—The Welcome Table

Fried Chicken

This is my mother’s version of the classic Southern dish.

Serves 4 to 6

2½-to 3-pound frying chicken, cut into pieces