High on the Hog_ A Culinary Journey From Africa to America - Jessica B. Harris [34]
Described as a “celebrated artiste” and an “accomplished master of the culinary arts” by his contemporaries, Hercules had begun his life in the kitchen at Mount Vernon, probably as a member of a house servant’s family. Little is known about him. Like many of the young boys who worked around Big Houses in the South, he was no doubt first tasked with hauling water and bringing in logs, removing ashes, and other menial jobs, and then he worked his way up the pecking order. It is known that he was named chief cook at Mount Vernon by 1786. Hercules was brought to New York when his master, George Washington, was displeased with the presidential fare there, and in 1790, when the capital moved to Philadelphia, Hercules moved there with Washington. He won accolades and was noted for his exacting efficiency and the flawless working of his kitchen at 190 High Street. Martha Washington’s grandson, George Washington Parke Custis, called him “as highly accomplished and [as] proficient in the culinary art as could be found in the United States.” Another observer was more eloquent:
Iron discipline, woe to his underlings if speck or spot could be discovered on the table … or if the utensils did not shine like polished silver … His underlings flew in all directions to execute his orders while he, the great masterspirit, seemed to possess the power of ubiquity, and to be everywhere at the same time.
Hercules’ duties extended beyond simply cooking; he also oversaw the smooth running of Washington’s kitchens, which at one point contained a German cook and two French ones. He managed their work. No recipes attributed to Hercules have been found, but he certainly must have been adept at preparing the steak and kidney pie and trifle that were known to be among Washington’s favorite dishes. Hercules was charged not only with overseeing all family meals, from the preparation to the service, but also with personally preparing the more formal Thursday dinners and congressional repasts. The latter were served up to the founding fathers with style and aplomb atop white linen and accompanied by glittering crystal, fine porcelain, and highly polished silver.
Although the food was closer to that of Britain, meals were served in what was called service à la française, or French service. The table was completely set with multiple dishes to tempt the diners. The number of dishes offered in each course had to be the same. Featured dishes occupied top, bottom, and central positions on the table and were large roasts, including a turkey and an entire pig. They were surrounded by arranged side dishes, making the entire tabl-escape a symmetrical array of china. The master and mistress would carve and serve the dishes, and the others would be served by those closest to them. At the conclusion of the first course, the dishes and napery were removed, revealing a new tablecloth underneath, which was then set for the second course—usually a dessert course of cakes, cookies, pies, and jellies in vast array. House slaves in service at the table would place the platters on it, bring fresh glasses and dishes as required, and serve drinks and the additional dishes that were displayed on the sideboards. At extremely formal occasions, the second tablecloth would be removed to reveal the mahogany table underneath, preserved fruits and nuts would be served along with beverages, and a series of toasts would be made.
This then was dinner; it was usually served between two and four P.M. Supper was served before bedtime and might be proceeded by tea in the early evening. Breakfast began the day at eight or nine in the morning and was similar to a continental breakfast of hot breads with the occasional addition of the previous day’s leftovers in the form of sliced ham or a meat hash. Hercules oversaw it all. Respected by his peers, feared by his underlings (who dreaded his exactitude and iron