High on the Hog_ A Culinary Journey From Africa to America - Jessica B. Harris [45]
The slaves had no butter, coffee, tea, or sugar; occasionally they were allowed milk, but not statedly; the only exception to this statement was the “harvest provisions.” In harvest, when cutting the grain, which lasted for two to three weeks in the heat of summer, they were allowed some fresh meat, rice, sugar, and coffee; also their allowance of whiskey.
Solomon Northup, a free black who had been illegally captured in New York City and sold in the South in 1841, bitterly recalled that all that was allowed the slaves on the Louisiana plantation where he was enslaved for twelve years was
corn and bacon, which is given out at the corn-crib and smoke-house every Sunday morning. Each one receives, as his weekly allowance, three and a half pounds of bacon, and corn enough to make a peck of meal. This is all—no tea, coffee, sugar and with the exception of a very scanty sprinkling now and then, no salt. I can say from a ten year’s residence with Master Epps, that no slave of his is ever likely to suffer from the gout, superinduced by excessive high living.
Unlike Pennington’s plantation, where the master distributed cornmeal already ground, on the Epps plantation, where Northup was enslaved, the corn was given by the ear. So the slaves had to pro cess it, shell it, and grind it into meal on their own time, which added to their already overburdened schedules. Northup’s account gives a sense of the never-ending, bone-numbing labor slaves did day in and day out. He notes that after the work in the fields was over, the slaves still had to attend to their other chores—feeding the animals, cutting wood, and the like—before they could finally go to their own cabins to build their own fire, grind the corn, and then prepare their meager suppers as well as the midday meal to take to the fields the next day. This midday meal was usually a form of corn ash cake with bacon. By the time all this was accomplished, he states simply, “it is usually midnight.” The dreaded horn or the equally hated bell, depending on the plantation, rang before daybreak, calling them back to the fields for another day’s toil. On the Epps plantation and many others, being caught in the quarters after daybreak was cause for flogging.
The midday meal was often taken to the fields and eaten there or was distributed by others so the rhythm of the fieldwork wasn’t interrupted. Often superannuated slaves who could no longer do hard labor were selected to distribute meals. John Brown, who had been a slave in Virginia in the first half of the nineteenth century, noted that the first full meal at the plantation on which he was enslaved was served in the field at noon after the cotton was weighed. It was a soup made from cornmeal and potatoes, called “lob-lolly” or “stirt-about.” A pint of it was served into a tin pan that each slave carried at his waist, and, as Brown remembered, “the distribution and disposal of the mess did not take long.”
Young children were usually fed communally. They were given a mash of cornmeal and milk in a communal kitchen by women who were too old or too infirm to