High on the Hog_ A Culinary Journey From Africa to America - Jessica B. Harris [57]
Although not an oysterman, Downing aimed even higher. He began by renting space on Pell Street in downtown Manhattan and searched for his own oyster beds. According to a biographical sketch written about him by his son, he would get up at two A.M.and, by the light of a lantern, make his way by boat to the New Jersey oyster fields to harvest fresh oysters daily to offer to his customers. His hard work paid off, and by the time the 1823 city directory was published, he was able to number himself among the city’s oystermen. His establishment continued to grow and prosper. By 1825, he opened an oyster “refectory” at 5 Broad Street, at the corner of Wall Street, where he offered raw oysters on the half shell as well as roasted oysters that were cooked over a fire of oak shavings. His eatery grew in popularity and began to lure the elite with its fare. Downing’s was one of the few places considered acceptable for women who arrived with their husbands or with their chaperones. Soon, as described by his son
it was fashionable for ladies and gentlemen, whole families—the most respected of the city—to … enjoy a repast which would cause their sons and daughters … to long for frequent repetitions. Ladies and gentlemen with towel in hand, and an English oyster knife made for the purpose, would open their own oysters, drop into the burning hot concaved shell a lump of sweet butter and other seasonings, and partake of a treat. Yes, there was a taste imparted by the saline and lime substances in which the juice of the oyster reached boiling heat that made it a delicate morsel. Truly, one worthy to be borne to the lips that sipped from the shell the nectareous mite.
By 1827, Downing constructed an oyster vault: a holding space in which the bivalves could be stored in saltwater. His business had grown so large that he could no longer supply his own oyster needs, and so he became a major client of the city’s other oystermen, earning their respect for his fairness in dealing and his knowledge of the product. Unlike many other oyster refectories, Downing’s was upscale and considered “the model of comfort and prosperity, with its mirrored arcades, damask curtains, dine carpet and chandelier,” according to a review. Downing catered to the elite, and the crème de la crème came. Newspapermen and financiers were regulars. Charles Dickens dined at Downing’s, as did the earl of Carlisle and Philip Hone, who was New York City’s mayor from 1825 to 1826. Downing’s refectory offered more than just raw oysters; it served the mollusks in many forms: scalloped oysters, poached turkey stuffed with oysters, fish in oyster sauce, and oyster pie, among other delicacies.
In 1842, New Yorkers were oyster mad and consumed about six million dollars’ worth of them. Downing grew richer. Along with owning the restaurant, he became a prosperous caterer and was the man to call for government and society events. He was so well thought of that he was asked to cater the Boz Ball, at which Dickens and his wife were presented to New York’s aristocracy. For this event alone he was paid the royal sum of $2,200. Downing shipped oysters to Paris, shipped pickled oysters to the West Indies, and even shipped some of his finest to Queen Victoria.
Even though he had been born free in Virginia and was a prosperous businessman, Downing was what would later be called a “race man.” Mindful of the fate of his enslaved brethren, he was an ardent abolitionist. In 1836 he helped found the all-black United Anti-Slavery Society of the City of New York and served on its executive committee for three years. He was also a trustee for the New York Society for the Promotion of Education Among Colored Children, which started two elementary schools for black children. He worked on voting rights campaigns in an effort to guarantee equal suffrage for African Americans.
Downing was succeeded