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Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [130]

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either category, but the portions are generous, the staff are convivial and the cold Tsingtao beers just keep on flowing.

Repulse Bay & Deep Water Bay

These little beach resorts are reachable by bus 6, 6A, 6X or 260 from Exchange Square ( Map), Central.

VERANDAH Map International $$$

2292 2822; www.therepulsebay.com; 1st fl, The Repulse Bay, 109 Repulse Bay Rd; noon-2.30pm, 3-5.30pm (tea) & 7-11pm Tue-Sat, 11am-2.30pm (brunch), 3.30-5.30pm (tea) & 7-11pm Sun

The restored and refurbished Verandah is still hushed and formal, with heavy white tablecloths and demurely clinking cutlery, but the entrance hall is more spacious and the new marble staircase with wooden banisters will make professionals of the most inexperienced photographers. The Sunday brunch (adult/child $418/209) is famous (book ahead). The afternoon tea ($178 per person), including the champagne tea set ($218 per person), is the south side’s best.

COCOCABANA Map Mediterranean $$

2812 2226; 2nd fl, Beach Bldg, Island Rd, Deep Water Bay; set lunch $278, set dinner $398; 12.30-midnight, closed Mon lunch

Clichéd as it may sound, it’s all location, location, location. The service is rather lax, but with the sound of the waves, dishes such as bouillabaisse and duck confit go down well.


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KOWLOON

Kowloon doesn’t have quite as many upmarket restaurants as Hong Kong Island does, but there’s a riveting assortment of ethnic eateries to fit all budgets in Tsim Sha Tsui. For hearty local fare, head for Yau Ma Tei or Mong Kok. Kowloon City is renowned for its excellent Thai and Chiu Chow eateries.


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TSIM SHA TSUI

Tsim Sha Tsui, once the stronghold of Shanghainese migrants, has been home to Indians, Russians, Pakistanis, Japanese, Filipinos and Koreans. No surprise then that it claims the lion’s share of ethnic restaurants in Kowloon. It’s the destination for Shanghainese, Northern Chinese and Korean food.

HUTONG Map Northern Chinese $$$

3428 8342; 28th fl, 1 Peking Rd; set dinner $880; noon-3pm, 6-11pm; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit C1)

Entering Hutong, which has one Michelin star, is like walking onto a Zhang Yimou film set. It’s ancient China recreated for the modern Western imagination replete with red lanterns and Buddha’s busts. Mind you, it’s all quite stylish, the service is great, the views stunning and the food is actually quite impressive.

SPRING MOON

Map Cantonese, Dim Sum $$$

2315 3160; www.peninsula.com; 1st fl, Peninsula Hong Kong, Salisbury Rd; set lunch $368, set dinner $928; 11.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-2.30pm Sun, 6-10.30pm Mon-Sun; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit E)

The Peninsula’s flagship Chinese restaurant, Spring Moon is a graceful teahouse in 1920s art deco style, where you can savour excellent teas and dim sum (from $50, lunch only) while basking in friendly service and the croonings of 1930s songstresses.

T’ANG COURT

Map Cantonese, Dim Sum $$$

2375 1133; http://hongkong.langhamhotels.com; Langham Hotel, 8 Peking Rd; 11am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, noon-2.30pm Sat & Sun, 6-10.30pm Mon-Sun; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit L4)

If the baked oysters with port ($220) and crispy eel with lemon and honey sauce ($190) make you wonder why T’ang Court has got only two Michelin stars, wait till you try the award-winning dishes. This suave establishment captures some of the finest moments of Cantonese cuisine.

Yè SHANGHAI

Map Shanghainese, Dim Sum $$$

2376 3322; www.elite-concepts.com; 6th fl, Marco Polo Hongkong Hotel, 3 Canton Rd; meals from $200; 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit L4)

The Michelin inspectors liked this stylish restaurant with great views, but the dishes may have less oil and a higher price tag than a Shanghainese grandma thinks appropriate. Once she’s tasted the minced pigeon with pine nuts and flaky pockets ($128), however, she may change her mind. There’s an Admiralty branch ( Map; 2918 9833; Shop 332, Level 3, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway; MTR Admiralty, exit F).

GAYLORD INDIAN RESTAURANT

Map Indian $$

2376 1001; 1st fl, 23-25 Ashley Rd; lunch buffet Mon-Sat $98, dinner

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