Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [131]
Kowloon’s classiest Indian restaurant has been entertaining a predominantly Indian clientele since 1972. Though pricier than similar places in town, the cosy alcoves, excellent northern Indian fare and live sitar music (from 7.30pm) compensate.
HONG KONG OLD RESTAURANT
Map Shanghainese, Dim Sum $$
2722 1812; Shop F, 4th fl, Knutsford Steps, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Rd; dinner $120-300; 11am-3pm, 5.30-11pm; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit B)
The walnuts with smoked eggs and the braised pork hock are so good at this restaurant even the cholesterol police would make an exception. Herbivores will drool over the 40 vegetarian offerings. There’s a North Point branch ( Map; 2508 1081; Basement, Newton Hotel Hong Kong, 218 Electric Rd; MTR Fortress Hill, exit A).
KUNG TAK LAM
Map Shanghainese, Vegetarian $$
2312 7800; 7th fl, 1 Peking Rd; meals from $100; 11am-11pm; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit C1)
Everyone loves the fried rice with seaweed and pine nuts at this relaxing Shanghainese vegetarian restaurant, and kidults will have a blast with the DIY cold noodles.
WU KONG SHANGHAI RESTAURANT Map Shanghainese, Dim Sum $$
2366 7244; www.wukong.com.hk; Basement, Alpha House, 27-33 Nathan Rd; dinner from $160; 11.30am-midnight; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit E)
If you don’t mind the staff looking daggers when you dawdle over your banana fritters, the specialities at this pleasant Shanghainese restaurant – cold pigeon in wine and Shanghainese pot-au-feu – are worth a trip across town. The four-course hairy crab meal (from $400, October to December) is also divine. There’s a branch in Causeway Bay ( Map; 2506 1018; 13th fl, Times Sq, 1 Matheson St; 5.45-10.45pm; MTR Causeway Bay, exit A).
BRANTO Map Vegetarian, Indian $
2366 8171; 1st fl, 9-11 Lock Rd; meals $50-110; 11am-3pm, 6-11pm; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit E)
Branto offers basic vegetarian Indian food, basic service, basic surroundings and nonstop Indian music videos.
CHUNGKING MANSIONS Map Indian $
36-44 Nathan Rd; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit D1)
Chungking Mansions, a building known for its backpacker hostels, is home to the largest concentration of cheap Indian and Pakistani eateries in Hong Kong. But considering that over 120 nationalities pass through its doors in a single year, Chungking’s culinary repertoire is rather conservative. A good lunch at the places recommended below will start at about $60.
For people-watching and some friendly conversation, check out the joints on the ground and 1st floors, which are popular with traders and merchants in the building. Delhi Club ( 2368 1682; Flat C3, 3rd fl, C Block; noon-3.30pm, 6-11.30pm) serves decent Indian food, such as chicken tikka ($55) and chicken tandoori ($25) under funky blue lighting. To dine in relative quiet, head for Everest Club ( 2316 2718; Flat D6, 3rd fl, D Block; 11.30am-3pm, 6-11.30pm), where the food is decent but a little less colourful than the other offerings in the building. Pakistan Mess ( 2368 1564; Flat C2, 4th fl, C Block; 11.30am-11.30pm) does good northern Indian halal food. Meat curries start from $40 and veggie curries from $30.
Shama Restaurant ( 2724 8787; Flat 48, Ground fl; 11am-midnight) is a great spot for people-watching over a cold draft Carlsberg. Taj Mahal Club ( 2722 5454; Flat B4, 3rd fl, B Block; 11.30am-3pm, 6-11.30pm) whips up a mean rogan josh ($60). This place can also do you raan mussalam ($275), a leg of lamb cooked in the tandoor and feeding six to eight people, if given advance warning.
CRYSTAL JADE
Map Shanghainese, Northern Chinese $
2622 2699; Shop 3328, 3rd fl, B Zone, Harbour City, 17 Canton Rd; 11am-11pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-11pm Sat & Sun; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit A1)
People were queuing for a table at this place long before it received a mention in the Michelin guide, and rightly so: the dishes here are mouth-watering, especially the noodles ($32 to $45). There are branches all over town, including in Central ( Map; 2295 3811; Shop 2018-2020, 2nd fl, Tower Two, IFC Mall, 1 Harbour View St; 11am-11pm; MTR