Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [132]
DIN TAI FUNG
Map Shanghainese, Northern Chinese $
2730 6928; www.dintaifung.com.tw; Shop 130, 3rd fl, 30 Canton Rd; 11.30am-10.30pm; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit C1)
The juicy pork-filled siú lùng bàau ($48) at this famous Taiwanese chain are comparable to some of the best in Shanghai. Other classics, such as noodles with braised beef ($58) and taro buns, can be anyone’s comfort food. There’s always a line at the door.
STAR CAFE Map Tea Cafe $
2721 2908; 36-37 Champagne Ct, 16 Kimberley Rd; noodles $20-26; 8am-9.30pm Mon-Sat; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit B1)
This cafe opened in 1966 and little has changed. Designers and office workers come here for the ambience and the red-bean ice. Fans of old Cantonese movies should ask Mr Lam or his English-speaking grandson to show them the mirror given to Mr Lam’s father by veteran Cantonese movie stars.
TAK FAT BEEF BALLS
Map Dai Pai Dong, Noodles $
2376 1179; Haiphong Rd Temporary Market, Haiphong Rd; 9am-8pm; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit A1)
This famous dai pai dong is one of a handful operating in this ‘temporary’ market, which has been temping here for the last 30 years. Pick a seat in the sprawl and order the beef ball noodles ($20), which are famed for their bounce and their hint of dried orange peel.
SWEET DYNASTY Map Congee, Dessert $
2199 7799; 100 Canton Rd; 8am-midnight Mon-Thu, 8am-11pm Fri, 7.30am-11pm Sat, 7.30am-midnight Sun; MTR Tsim Sha Tsui (exit A1)
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SWEET HONG KONG
The Chinese are not traditionally known for their sweet tooth. Steamed cakes are eaten occasionally as dim sum, often with strong tea. Sweet soups, a southern speciality made by boiling pulses, seeds and root vegetables, are consumed as a late-night snack, for their taste and their positive effects on health. Traditional desserts do not contain dairy products, as many Chinese are lactose-intolerant. All this, however, has been changing as people adopt an increasingly Westernised way of life. Now teenagers call themselves ‘chocoholics’, and office workers talk about saving stomach space for cheesecake.
Sweets in Hong Kong run the gamut from dessert soups and Chinese pastries to Southeast Asian sago puddings and Western confectionery. For a sampler of Hong Kong–style sweets, your best bet is Honeymoon Dessert Click here and Sweet Dynasty (above). Sweet Auntie ( Map; 2508 6962; Shop A4, 96 Electric Rd; 3pm-2am Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am Sun; MTR Tin Hau, exit A2) does wonderful things with tofu. Hop Shing Chiu Chow Dessert ( Map; 2383 3026; 9 Lung Kong Rd; 12.30pm-1am; 5C from Tsim Sha Tsui Star Ferry) specialises in sweet soups with Chiu Chow touches. For well-made local pastries, head for Sai Kung Cafe and Bakery Click here and Tai Cheong Bakery Click here.
XTC, with branches in Central ( Map; 2541 0500; www.xtc.com.hk; 45 Cochrane St; noon-midnight Mon-Thu & Sun, noon-2am Fri & Sat; MTR Central, exit D1) and Tsim Sha Tsui ( Map; 2368 3602; KP-01, Star Ferry Terminal; 11am-midnight Mon-Fri & Sun, 11am-1am Sat; Star Ferry) and a handful of other places, makes the best gelato in town. Modern and airy Vero Lounge ( Map; 2559 5882; 1st fl, Fenwick Pier, 1 Lung King St; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat, closed Sun; MTR Admiralty, exit E2) serves drinking chocolate ($35) and decadent desserts created with chocolate made in-house. Tiffin Lounge ( Map; 2584 7822; www.hongkong.grand.hyatt.com; Grand Hyatt Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Rd; per person $198; 7-10.30pm; MTR Wan Chai, exit A1) at the Grand Hyatt has a sumptuous dessert buffet.
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From a dessert-and-congee shop, the Sweet Dynasty has evolved into a mini empire with locations in Shanghai, Taiwan and Japan, its extensive menu embracing all things casual and Cantonese. But its desserts (from $17 to $50) and congee are still the best. It’s clean and modern, but gets crowded when busy.
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