Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [138]
Chung Shing Thai Restaurant Map Thai $
2664 5218; 69B-72, Tai Mei Tuk Village, Ting Kok Rd; 8am-midnight; 75K bus or minibus 20C from MTR Tai Po Market
This chaotic open-air restaurant holds the secret to making perfect grilled meats. The pork neck, beef cubes (both $58) and eel skewer ($60) are among the best in town. Most other dishes, though still decent, have been tweaked to suit local palates.
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SHA TIN
The multilevel, three-phase shopping mall New Town Plaza ( Map), connected to the Sha Tin KCR station, has more eateries than you can shake a chopstick at. Our favourites are all in Phase 1; they include Bay Phoon Town ( Map; 2628 0218; Shop 710, New Town Plaza Phase 1; 11am-11.30pm), Shakey’s Pizza Restaurant ( Map; 2608 0889; Shop 121; 11.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-10.30pm Sat & Sun), Shanghai Xiao Nan Guo ( Map; 2894 8899; Shop 709; 11.30am-3.30pm, 6-11.30pm), Cafe Merlion ( Map; 2605 3636; Shop 127; noon-10.30pm) and Honeymoon Dessert ( Map; 2602 6366; Shop 704A; 11.30am-11.30pm).
Sha tin 18
Map Cantonese, Northern Chinese $$
3723 1234; www.hongkong.shatin.hyatt.com; Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, 18 Chak Cheung St; 11.30am-3pm, 5.30-10.30pm; MTR University East Rail
When done right, the Peking duck (whole $398, half $218, 24-hour advance booking required) here – with skin airy like a kiss – is excellent, but sometimes the birds aren’t rescued from the heat in time, and they taste burnt. However, that is a kink this just-opened restaurant may be able to iron out, given time. The pot-stickers ($68), mustard greens ($78) and Chinese-themed desserts are quite delicious. Take a ringside seat at the show kitchen and see if you agree with us. The Hyatt Regency is a five-minute walk from University MTR station.
Chan Kun Kee Map Dai Pai Dong, Cantonese $
2606 1390; 3-5 Dai Pai Dong, Wo Che Estate Market; 6pm-1am; 85k from Sha Tin New Town Plaza
Located below a public housing estate, this 30-year-old dai pai dong has improvised a tin roof, ceiling fans and a TV, so its customers can bask in homely luxury while they dine. The hand-shredded chicken ($52) and steamed eel with black-bean sauce ($58) are perfect with beer.
Lung Wah Hotel Restaurant Map Cantonese $
2691 1828; www.lungwahhotel.hk; 22 Ha Wo Che; 11am-11pm; MTR Sha Tin (exit B), walk north for 10min along the railway line
This former holiday home was turned into a hotel in 1951, where Bruce Lee was supposed to have stayed during the filming of The Big Boss. It’s now a restaurant, frequented by nostalgic adults and history lovers. You’ll find a small playground out front where peacocks are kept in cages, and an outdoor area where old men come to play mah-jong. Food-wise, stick with the roast pigeon ($68).
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DAH WING WAH
The walled villages in the New Territories are traditionally homes to the Hakka, a roaming and hardworking people who moved to Hong Kong, among many other places, from the Central Plains of China. Their lifestyle spawned a unique cuisine featuring the liberal use of salt, preserved ingredients and fatty meat.
Established in 1950, Dah Wing Wah ( Map; 2nd fl, Koon Wong Mansion, 2-6 On Ning Rd; 6am-midnight; 968 or N968 from Tin Hau bus terminus) is the most famous restaurant in Hong Kong for walled-village dishes. Its head chef and managing partner, Hugo Leung Man-to, is famous for his efforts at enhancing and preserving traditional dishes. Hugo sources local ingredients from small farms and food producers whenever possible, and complements them with his insightful experience and innovations in cooking. He thinks shrimps in Hong Kong, mostly farmed in mainland China, taste bland, so he boosts them with Baxter’s lobster bisque. His ideas work. People have been zooming into this far corner of town to line up for tables. Must-eats include lemon-steamed grey mullet, smoked oysters and Malay sponge cake. Hugo hosts TV food shows, designs gourmet tours and writes newspaper columns.