Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [139]
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SAI KUNG
Sai Kung town is chock-a-block with eateries, but you’d make a special trip here only for a couple. It’s reachable by bus 92 from Diamond Hill MTR bus terminus (exit C2). To get to Pak Sha Wan, take minibus 1A or 1M from Sai Kung Town.
Chez Les Copains Map French $$
2243 1918; www.chezlescopains.com; 117 Pak Sha Wan; 6-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 12.30pm-midnight Sat & Sun, closed Tue; set lunch $120-190, set dinner $390-490, tea $90
This friendly restaurant with warm-coloured walls is where bubbly Cordon Bleu chef Bonnie lives and feeds her customers, many of whom make a special trip from town just to savour her homemade goose liver terrine, duck leg confit and French andouillette (a rustic tripe sausage).
Chuen Kee Seafood Restaurant Map Cantonese, Seafood $$
2792 6938; 87-89 Man Nin St; set meals for 2 $348; 7am-11pm
This is the plush new branch of the Michelin-recommended Chuen Kee ( Map; 2791 1195; 53 Hoi Pong St; 11am-11pm), the granddaddy of Sai Kung seafood restaurants. The elaborate display of fish and crustaceans at the door may make you cringe, but cringe will turn to crave once you’ve had a bite of the cooked versions.
Kam Kau Kee Seafood Restaurant Map Cantonese, Seafood $
2719 8432; 145 Pak Sha Wan; dishes $75-200; 11.30am-3pm, 5.30-11pm
Chef Kam shops every morning for ingredients to make dishes such as deep-fried soft-bone fish, typhoon shelter tofu and steamed chicken, to make sure that the hikers and divers who frequent his restaurant after a day out will be greeted with wholesome food and cheap beer ($10 per large bottle) in the least pretentious surroundings.
Ali Oli Bakery cafe Map European, Bakery $
2792 2655; www.alioli.com.hk; 11 Sha Tsui Path; 8am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-9pm Sat & Sun
No trip to Sai Kung is complete without stopping at this bakery, where you can gorge on wonderful European-style bread (from $4 to $30), pies and homemade preserves (from $35) while people-watching at one of the outdoor tables. Ali Oli also offers breakfasts (from $20) and set lunches (from $35).
Honeymoon dessert Map Chinese Desserts $
2792 4991; www.honeymoon-dessert.com; 9, 10A, B&C Po Tung Rd; per person $30; 1pm-2.45am
This dessert shop specialising in Chinese desserts such as sweet walnut soup and durian pudding is so successful that it’s got branches all over China and in Indonesia, not to mention some 20 locations in Hong Kong, including Sheung Wan ( Map; 2851 2606; Shop 4-8, Ground fl, Western Market, 323 Des Voeux Rd Central; noon-midnight; MTR Sheung Wan, exit C) and Causeway Bay ( Map; 2881 8336; Shop 423, Podium 4, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Rd; 1-11.30pm Sun-Thu, 1pm-midnight Fri & Sat; MTR Causeway Bay, exit A).
Lardos Steak House Map Steakhouse $$
2719 8168; 4B Hang Hau Village, Tseung Kwan O; set lunch $65; noon-3pm, 6pm-10.30am Mon-Fri, noon-10.30pm Sat & Sun; MTR Hang Hau (exit B), minibus 11 to Hang Hou Village
If you’re in Tseung Kwan O, this tiny steakhouse owned by a seasoned meat supplier is your best option for a meal. The succulent chunks of meat are attractively priced ($239 for a 16-oz T-bone steak).
Sai Kung Cafe and Bakery Map Bakery $
2792 3861; 6-7 Hoi Pong Sq; 7am-10.30pm
The local alternative to Ali Oli above, this corner cafe sells sensational Hong Kong–style bread. When fresh from the oven, their pineapple buns ($6) are heavenly.
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TAP MUN CHAU
You won’t starve to death on remote Tap Mun, but you also won’t have much choice in the way of venues. There’s only one restaurant on this far-flung island, which technically belongs to the Tai Po District but is connected to Sai Kung by ferry.
New Hon Kee Map Cantonese, Seafood $
2328 2428; 4 Tap Mun Hoi Pong St; meals from $60; 11am-2pm Mon-Fri, 11am-4.30pm Sat & Sun; Tap Mun ferry from Ma Liu Shui (MTR University)
This seafood restaurant, popular with islanders and visitors alike, is a short walk northeast of the ferry pier on the way to Tin Hau temple.
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OUTLYING ISLANDS
Restaurants and other eateries vary