Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [140]
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LAMMA
Lamma offers the greatest choice of restaurants and cuisines of any of the Outlying Islands. Most people head directly to Sok Kwu Wan for a fix of Cantonese seafood, but Yung Shue Wan, the most populated village, has a vast and eclectic range, and there are a couple of other venues elsewhere on the island that are worth the trip. The trail between Sok Kwu Wan and Yung Shue Wan, divided by a small hill, is popular among leisure hikers. The journey will take you through Hung Shing Yeh Beach.
Yung Shue Wan
Yung Shue Wan has a large choice of places for people to eat, mostly dispersed along its main (and only) street. To get here, take a ferry from Pier 4 in front of Exchange Square or from Aberdeen near the wholesale fish market.
Bookworm Café Map Cafe, Vegetarian $
2982 4838; www.bookwormcafe.com.hk; 79 Main St; 10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-10pm Sat, 9am-9pm Sun;
This legendary place is not just a great vegetarian cafe-restaurant with fruit juices and organic wine ($35 per glass) but also a second-hand bookshop and an internet cafe.
DELI LAMMA CAFE Map Cafe $
2982 1583; 36 Main St; set lunch $70; 9am-2am
This relaxed cafe-restaurant serves everything, from continental fare to Indian and Mediterranean, with a fair few pasta dishes and pizzas. It has an excellent bar and views of the harbour.
Lamcombe Seafood Restaurant Map Cantonese, Seafood $
2982 0881; 47 Main St; meals from $120; 11am-2.30pm, 5-10pm
Lamcombe has been serving up tasty fried squid and steamed scallops on the half-shell for over 10 years. Though slightly pricier than similar establishments nearby, portions are big and the location is more rustic. Vegetarians will love the eggplant and tofu hotpot.
Hung Shing Yeh
This popular beach southeast of Yung Shue Wan, about 500m from the pier, has a waterfront hotel, Concerto Inn ( Map; 2982 1668; 28 Hung Shing Yeh Beach; set dinner $88 9-10.30am, noon-10pm), where you can have Western and Southeast Asian food on the terrace. You’ll also find the famous Kin Hing Tofu Dessert ( Map; Yung Shue Wan Back St; 10am-6pm Sat, Sun & public holidays) and pigeon restaurant Han Lok Yuen ( Map; 2982 0608; 16-17 Hung Shing Yeh Wan; pigeon each $65; 11.30am-9pm).
Sok Kwu Wan
An evening meal at Sok Kwu Wan is an enjoyable way to end a trip to Lamma. The restaurants line the waterfront on either side of the ferry pier and will be chock-a-block on weekend nights with locals and expats who have arrived by ferry, on boats laid on by the restaurants themselves, on company junks or on private yachts. Most of the dozen or so restaurants offer the same relatively high-quality seafood at similar prices, but a few places stand out from the pack. There’s a ferry service from Pier 4 in front of Exchange Square.
Rainbow Seafood Restaurant Map Chinese, Seafood $$
2982 8100; www.rainbowrest.com.hk; Shops 1A-1B, Ground fl, 23-25 First St; meals from $150; 10am-10.30pm
The Rainbow, with a waterfront location, specialises in seafood, especially steamed grouper, lobster and abalone. A plus is that when you book a table, you have the option of being transported by small ferry from Central Pier 9 and Tsim Sha Tsui Public Pier. Call or check the website for sailings.
Tai Yuen Restaurant Map Chinese, Seafood $
2982 8386, 2982 8391; 15 First St; 10am-11pm
This small, intimate place offers less frenetic, friendlier service than most of the other places in Sok Kwu Wan.
Mo Tat Wan
In this relatively remote corner of Lamma there’s a slightly upmarket Western restaurant, the Bay ( Map; 2982 8186; 7 Beach Front; mains $98-138; 11am-10pm; from Aberdeen near the wholesale fish market).
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LANTAU
The lion’s share of Lantau’s restaurants is in Mui Wo (Silvermine Bay),