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with Hong Kong and Shenzhen in just 40 minutes; and a light rail linking Zhuhai will be complete by the same time. More efficient is the Guangzhou east train station, which serves more far-flung destinations. There is a separate ticketing booth ( 7.30am-9pm) for trains to Hung Hom, in Hong Kong’s Kowloon (Y167/HK$190, 1¾ hr), and a dozen fast trains a day between 8.19am and 9.32pm. A cheaper and popular way to get from Hong Kong to Guangzhou is to board a bullet train once you go across the border to Shenzhen. They run frequently between Guangzhou east train station and Shenzhen (Y75 to Y109, 52 minutes to 1¼ hours) from 5.35am to 10.50pm.

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The northern bank of the Pearl River is an interesting area filled with people and dilapidated buildings. The Guangzhou Star Cruises Company ( 020-8333 2222) has evening cruises on the Pearl River (Y50 to Y128, 1½ hours) between 6.30pm and 10pm. Boats leave from the Tianzi Pier (Tiānzì Mǎtou; Beijing Lu), just east of Haizhu Bridge (Hǎizhū Qiáo; catch metro line 2 from Hǎizhū Guǎngchǎng metro), and head downriver as far as Ersha Island (Èrshā Dǎo). Guangzhou Passenger Ship Company ( 020-8101 3912) also has evening cruises (Y23 to Y38, 1½ hours) from 7.30pm to 9.50pm leaving from Xidi Pier (Xīdī Mǎtou; Yanjiang Xilu).

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INFORMATION

You can access the internet at most of the hotels listed in the Sleeping section.

Bank of China (Zhōngguó Yínháng; 020-8334 0998; 698 Renmin Beilu; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, to 4pm Sat & Sun)

China Travel Service (CTS; Zhōngguó Lǚxíngshè; 020-8333 6888; 8 Qiaoguang Lu; 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun) Located next to Hotel Landmark Canton, it offers various tours and books tickets.

Post office (Yóujú; Huanshi Xilu; 8am-8pm) Conveni-ently located next to the train station.

Public Security Bureau (PSB; Gōng’ānjú; 020-8311 5800/8; 155 Jiefang Nanlu; 8-11.30am & 2.30-5pm) Helps with the needs of all ‘aliens’. Between Dade Lu and Daxin Lu.

www.lifeofguangzhou.com Online yellow pages for visitors and expats in Guangzhou.

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SHOPPING

Guangzhou is a terrific place for cheap and cheerful shopping, and almost each market or area has its speciality. Prices are reasonably cheap, and you can unearth some real treasures among the overwhelming variety of goods.

Běijīng Lù (Gōng Yuánqián metro) One of Guangzhou’s favourite shopping spots, this is a 300m pedestrian street crammed full of shops, big and small, selling virtually everything imaginable. The weekends are crowded here, but that’s part of the fun.

Fangcun Tea Market (Fāngcūn Cháyè Shìchǎng; Fangcun Dadao; Fāngcūn metro) A sprawling block-after-block market with tea shops and malls selling tea and teapots. Most target wholesale traders but retail is often possible.

Haizhu Square (Hǎizhū Guǎngchǎng; Hǎizhū Guǎngchǎng metro) Haizhu Square has always been a popular spot for discounted clothing and other merchandise.

Xiguan Antique Street (Xīguān Gǔwán Chéng; Lizhiwan Lu) If it’s antiques you’re after, there’s no better place to head than in the Xīguān area, which has shops selling everything from ceramic teapots to Tibetan rugs.

Tianhe computer markets (Tiānhé Diànnǎochéng; east end of Tianhe Lu; Shípáiqiáo or Gāngdǐng metro) A supersized version of Huaqiang Bei St in Shenzhen. Tons and tons of electronics and gadgets are sold in shops and malls straddling a few kilometres of the east end of Tianhe Lu.

Wéndé Lù, east of Beijing Lu, is a less touristy area that hosts an array of Chinese fine-art shops and galleries selling calligraphy, paintings and antique books.

Xià Jiǔlù/Shàng Jiǔlù (‘Up Down Nine Street’) is another pedestrian shopping street that has a bit more character. It’s in one of the oldest parts of the city, where the buildings retain elements of both Western and Chinese architecture. It’s a good place to look for discounted clothing.

Huálè Lù, located behind the Garden Hotel, and Liùyùn Xiǎoqū, a leafy residential area clustered with trendy boutiques and cafes off Tianhe Nanyilu, are fashion destinations with the hottest