Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [199]
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EATING
Guangzhou is especially famous for its dim sum. In Xīguān District there are many tiny restaurants featuring some locally well-known Xīguān Xiǎochī (snacks and dessert), where you can bump elbows with the locals. A large expat population means that there are also many other types of restaurants that serve international cuisines.
1920 Restaurant & Bar (Kāfēitīng; 020-8333 6156; 183 Yanjiang Xilu; mains from Y78, beer from Y30; 11am-2am) Offers casual German fare and is a nice place to enjoy an imported beer on the riverfront. The menu includes sausages, meatballs and even stuffed goose.
Bingsheng Restaurant (Bǐngshàng Hǎixiān Jiǔjiā; 020-3428 6910; 33 Dongxiao Lu; dishes from Y48; 11am-midnight) Bingsheng has a handful of branches in Guangzhou, but the mammoth flagship beneath Haiyin Bridge remains the best. Its sea bass sashimi with Shùndé flavour (hǎilú cìshēn; ) and bean curd with crab roe (dòufuhuā zhēngxiègāo; ) are outstandingly tasty. There is no English menu, so try to grab a Chinese friend to communicate. Reservations are impossible.
Chuānguó Yǎnyì ( 020-3887 9878; Nanfang Securities Bldg, 140-148 Tiyu Donglu; dishes from Y35; 10am-2pm & 5-9pm) If you like your food hot, this restaurant will fry your tastebuds with its authentic Sichuan cuisine, served with plenty of hot peppers. The fiery Sichuan hotpot is the best in Guangzhou.
Nánxìn ( 020-8138 9904; 47 Dishipu Lu; dessert Y5-12, dishes Y8-15; 10am-midnight) A specialist in Xīguān Xiǎochī, this busy restaurant is a very popular pit stop for Cantonese desserts and is located near the Xià Jiǔlù/Shàng Jiǔlù shopping quarter. Try the steamed egg whites with milk (shuāngpínǎi; ).
La Seine (Sàinàhé Fǎguó Cāntīng; 020-8735 2531; 33 Qingbo Lu; mains Y96-258; 11am-2.30pm & 5-10.30pm) For authentic nouvelle cuisine try this French restaurant on the 1st floor of the Xinghai Concert Hall.
Lucy’s (Lùsī Jiǔbā Cāntīng; 020-8121 5106; 3 Shamian Nanjie; dishes Y28-40; 11am-2am) Western carnivores seeking comfort food should try this favourite on Shamian Island. Enjoy decent burgers, buffalo wings, and beer for Y16 a pint (happy hour is from 4pm to 6pm).
Panxi Restaurant (Pānxī Jiǔjiā; 020-8172 1328; 151 Longjin Xilu; dishes from Y36; 7.30am-midnight) The majestic garden in this restaurant is as impressive as its dim sum and dishes like sauteéd clam and fish with vegetables.
Tao Tao Ju Restaurant (Táotáojū Jiǔjiā; 020-8139 6111; 20 Dishipu Lu; dishes from Y35; 6.45am-midnight) This restaurant is housed in an academy dating back to the 17th century. It’s a bit more expensive than other Canto diners, but the fabulous 200-item dim sum menu makes up for it. Getting a table here is impossible after 11am.
Thai Zhen Cow & Bridge (Tàizhēn Niú Qiáo; 020-8121 9988; 54 Shamian Beijie; mains Y58-78; 11am-11pm) Though bizarrely named, the Thai Zhen Cow & Bridge serves up the best Thai food in Guangzhou. The red and green curries are superb.
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DRINKING
Guangzhou has a number of international-style bars where, in addition to sinking chilled Tsingtao and imported beers, you can scoff pizza, burgers, rice or noodles.
People’s Cafe ( 020-8376 6677; 35 Jianshe Wumalu; coffee from Y22, sandwiches from Y30; 7.30am-2.30pm) This popular cafe run by two Korean sisters has had a very smart facelift after its relocation. Best are the homemade pastries and tasty sandwiches. At night it turns into a cheerful drinking spot.
C Union (Xǐwō; 020-3584 0144; Ground fl, Chéngshì Huì, 115 Shuiyin Lu; 7pm-2am) Live music is the principal attraction at this unpretentious boozer. It hosts a good mix of local bands, from R&B to reggae.
Paddy Field ( 020-8360 1379; Westin Guangzhou, 6 Linhe Zhonglu; 6.30pm-3am) This famous (and pricey) Irish pub is one of the expats’ favourite drinking haunts for top-notch beer. It cranks up on Saturdays for the salsa party.
Ping Pong ( 020-2829 6306; Starhouse 60, 60 Xianlie