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Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [200]

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Donghenglu; 6pm-2am) This speakeasy-like bohemian watering hole hosts live music from time to time and offers a mix of theatre and exhibitions. It’s a bit tricky to get here, though. Flag down a yellow taxi and tell the driver to drop you behind Xinghai Conservatory (Xīnghǎi Yīnyuè Xuéyuàn Hòumiàn; ).

Wilber’s ( 020-3761 1101; 62 Zhusigang Ermalu; 5pm-midnight Sun-Thu, to 2am Fri & Sat) Wilber’s is a gem that is hidden down an alley in a historical villa. It has something for everyone: the patio is popular with ladies looking for a quiet natter, indoors is a gay-friendly drinking den, and upstairs is a fine-dining restaurant. It serves the best martinis and margaritas in town.

Other watering holes include the bars at Baietan Bar Street (Bái’étán Jiǔbā; 7pm-2.30am), located along the Pearl River, next to the Guangzhou Riverside International Youth Hostel. The Overseas Chinese Village (Heping Lu) and nearby Huanshi Donglu have a string of bars catering to foreigners and trendy locals.


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ENTERTAINMENT

The free monthly entertainment guide That’s PRD (http://guangzhou.urbanatomy.com), which is available at most top-end hotels and international-style bars and restaurants, is an invaluable source of information for what’s going on around town. The 1800-seat Guangzhou Opera House will be the premier performance venue of Guangdong and China’s third-largest theatre after its completion in 2010.

Velvet (Sīróngbā; 020-8732 1139; Ground fl, International Electronic Tower, 403 Huanshi Donglu; beer Y55, cocktails Y50; 7.30pm-3am) Guangzhou’s most famous club, popular with local and international DJs. With a full range of tunes to suit everybody, it’s one of the best bets for a good night out.

Xinghai Concert Hall (Xīnghǎi Yīnyuè Tīng; 020-8735 2766; 33 Qingbo Lu) Ersha Island houses the city’s premier venue for classical music, and this concert hall is home to the Guangzhou Symphony Orchestra.


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SLEEPING

Hotels in Guangzhou are expensive. Prices rise even higher during the Canton Trade Fair in spring and autumn. Despite the horror of posted rates, most hotels offer 50% discounts, depending on the season. Top-end places add a 15% service charge to the quoted room rate. Most hotels offer in-room broadband internet access.

7 Days Inn (Qītiān Liánsuǒ Jiǔdiàn; 020-8364 4488; fax 020-8364 4477; 32 Huale Lu; r Y189-229) This chain hotel is the cheapest (but very decent) option in the five-star enclave in Yuèxiù District.

Westin Guangzhou (Guǎngzhōu Tiānyú Wēisītīng Jiǔdiàn; 020-2886 6868; www.starwoodhotels.com; 6 Linhe Zhonglu; s & d from Y1260, ste from Y2076) The luxurious Westin is the best place to stay in Tiānhé, if not in Guangzhou. Staff are very welcoming and efficient, rooms are spacious and sparkling, and the location near the east train station is terrific.

Garden Hotel (Huāyuán Jiǔdiàn; 020-8333 8989; www.thegardenhotel.com.cn; 368 Huanshi Donglu; s & d US$160-260, ste from US$450) This lavish five-star hotel will impress you with its grand lobby, spiralling staircases, garden, elegant rooms and the impeccable service.

Guangzhou Riverside International Youth Hostel (Guǎngzhōu Jiāngpàn Guójì Qīngnián Lǚguǎn; 020-2239 2500; fax 020-2239 2548; 15 Changdi Lu; dm Y50, s Y108-138, d Y148-198, ste Y268; Fāngcūn metro, exit B) Located in Fāngcūn next to a bar street, this emerging backpacker hub has spotless rooms. Ferries depart frequently from Huángshā pier on Shamian Island to Fāngcūn pier right in front of the hostel.

Guangdong Victory Hotel (Shènglì Bīnguǎn; 020-8121 6688; www.vhotel.com; 53 & 54 Shamian Beijie) There are two branches of the Victory Hotel on Shamian Island, an older branch at 54 Shamian Beijie (enter from 10 Shamian Sijie) with adequate rooms between Y300 and Y420, and a newer wing at 53 Shamian Beijie, with better-value doubles costing between Y480 and Y800.

White Swan Hotel (Báitiān’é Bīnguǎn; 020-8188 6968; www.whiteswanhotel.com; 1 Shamian Nanjie; r Y1300-1500, ste from Y3100) With 843 rooms, this hotel is considered the most prestigious

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