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only Olympic gold-medal winner to date, Lee Lai-shan, who took the top prize in windsurfing at the 1996 Olympics in Atlanta, grew up here. At the northern end of Afternoon Beach, the Cheung Chau Windsurfing Water Sports Centre ( 2981 2772; www.ccwindc.com.hk; 1 Hak Pai Rd; 10am-7pm) rents sailboards for between $90 and $150 per hour, as well as single/double kayaks for $60/130. There are also windsurfing courses available for $600/800 per day. The best time for windsurfing here is between October and December.

At the southeastern end of Afternoon Beach a footpath leads uphill past a Kwun Yam temple, which is dedicated to the goddess of mercy. Continue up the footpath and look for the sign to the Fa Peng Knoll. The concrete footpath takes you past quiet, tree-shrouded villas.

From the knoll you can walk down to signposted Don Bosco Rd; it leads due south to rocky Nam Tam Wan (also known as Morning Beach), where swimming is possible. If you ignore Don Bosco Rd and continue walking west, you’ll come to the intersection of Peak and Kwun Yam Wan Rds. Kwun Yam Wan Rd and its extension, School Rd, will take you back to Cheung Chau village.

Peak Rd is the main route to the island’s cemetery in the southwestern part of the island; you’ll pass several pavilions along the way built for coffin bearers making the hilly climb. Once at the cemetery it’s worth dropping down to Pak Tso Wan (Italian Beach), a sandy, isolated spot that is good for swimming. At this point Peak Rd West becomes Tsan Tuen Rd, which continues north to Sai Wan.

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TRANSPORT – CHEUNG CHAU

Ferry Services from Central leave from pier 5 of the Outlying Islands ferry terminal. Ferries can also be taken from Mui Wo and Chi Ma Wan on Lantau and from Peng Chau. Additionally, regular kaido operate between Cheung Chau village (Sampan pier) and Sai Wan in the south of the island.

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CHEUNG CHAU VILLAGE Map

Cheung Chau

The island’s main settlement lies along the narrow strip of land connecting the headlands to the north and the south. The waterfront is a bustling place and the maze of streets and alleyways that make up the village are filled with old Chinese-style houses and tumble-down shops selling everything from plastic buckets to hell money and other combustible grave offerings. The streets close to the waterfront are pungent with the smell of incense and fish hung out to dry in the sun.

SAMPAN RIDES Map

Cheung Chau

A great way to see the harbour and soak up the fishing village atmosphere is to charter a sampan for half an hour (expect to pay $60 to $100 depending on the day, the season and the demand). Most sampans congregate around the cargo pier, but virtually any small boat you see in the harbour can be hired as a water taxi. Just wave and two or three will come forward. Be sure to agree on the fare first.

CHEUNG PO TSAI CAVE Map

Cheung Chau

This ‘cave’ – in truth not much more than a hole in some rocks – on the southwestern peninsula of the island is said to have been the favourite hideout of the notorious pirate Cheung Po Tsai, who once commanded a flotilla of 600 junks and had a private army of 4000 men. He surrendered to the Qing government in 1810 and became an official himself, but his treasure is said to remain hidden here.

It’s a 2km walk from Cheung Chau village along Sai Wan Rd, or take a kaido (adult/child from $3/2, dependent on passenger numbers) from the cargo ferry pier to the pier at Sai Wan. From here the walk is less than 200m (uphill).

TIN HAU TEMPLES Map

Cheung Chau

Cheung Chau has four temples dedicated to Tin Hau, the empress of heaven and patroness of seafarers. Pak She Tin Hau Temple lies 100m northwest of the Pak Tai Temple. Nam Tam Wan Tin Hau temple is just north of Morning Beach; Tai Shek Hau Tin Hau temple is to the west on Sai Wan Rd. Sai Wan Tin Hau temple is west of Sai Wan (Western Bay), on the southwestern tip of the island. You can walk there or catch a kaido from the cargo pier.

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ISLAND LIFE

Walking Tour

1 Cheung Chau Ferry Pier Head north along Praya St,