Hong Kong and Macau_ City Guide (Lonely Planet, 14th Edition) - Andrew Stone [92]
2 Pak Tai Temple At Pak She Fourth Lane, turn right and shortly you’ll see the colourful temple ( Click here), built in 1783. The Pak She Tin Hau Temple is behind, about 100m to the northwest. The temple is within the grounds of the Chung Shak-Hei home for the aged.
3 Pak She St & San Hing St You’ll pass traditional Chinese houses and several shops selling traditional Chinese medicine, incense and paper hell money to be burned in memory of the dead. Further south, and on the left at the intersection of Pak She St and Kwok Man Rd, is a small Tou Tei shrine, dedicated to the overworked earth god.
4 Hometown Teahouse Thirsty? Then why not stop at this teahouse (Click here) for a refreshing drink by the amiable Japanese proprietors here.
5 Rock Carving Turn right and walk along Cheung Chau Beach Rd to a 3000-year-old rock carving of two identical geometric designs, just beyond the Warwick Hotel. Behind the hotel is Cheung Chau Sports Rd; walk up and when you see a pavilion, turn right onto Kwun Yam Wan Rd and from there onto Peak Rd, which takes you around to the other side of the pavilion.
6 Cheung Chau Meteorological Station Follow Peak Rd West about 500m past Kam Kong Primary School to the Meteorological Station, offering splendid views of the island and sea. A bit further south and through the trees to the left is Cheung Chau Cemetery, affording a quiet and solemn view out to sea. Stay left where the path splits in the cemetery.
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WALK FACTS
Start Cheung Chau ferry pier
End Sai Wan (then a kaido to Cheung Chau ferry pier)
Distance 4.5km
Time 2½ hours
Fuel stop Hometown Teahouse
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7 Cheung Po Tsai Cave Follow the signs for Sai Wan and signs to the Cheung Po Tsai Cave (opposite), a place where pirates of old were supposed to have buried their booty. Return via the well-signposted kaido (adult/child $3/2) to Cheung Chau village. Alternatively, follow Sai Wan Rd around the bay and north back to the village (20 to 30 minutes).
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PENG CHAU
Eating Click here
Tiny Peng Chau ( Map) is fairly flat and not especially beautiful, but it does have its charms. The appeal of visiting Peng Chau lies in slackening your pace to match the island’s, and soaking up the traditional sights and sounds, such as the clatter of mahjong tiles with the plaintive accompaniment of Cantonese opera leaking from old transistors.
It is perhaps the most traditionally Chinese of the Outlying Islands, with narrow alleyways, crowded housing, a covered wet market near the ferry pier, a couple of small but important temples, and interesting shops selling everything from Thai goods to New Age products. There are also a few closet-sized restaurants whose sea views have unfortunately been ruined by a massive concrete ‘wave reflector’ and promenade running along the shore south of the ferry pier.
Until recently the island’s economy was supported by fishing and some cottage industries now all but dead (having moved to mainland China), though you will find a couple of porcelain and gift shops on Wing Hing and Wing On Sts. There’s a branch of HSBC ( 2233 3000; 1 Wing Hing St; Mon, Wed & Fri) nearby. The post office is due west near the start of the promenade.
Looking not unlike a plumped-out horseshoe jettisoned from Lantau’s northeast coast, Peng Chau is just under 1 sq km in area. It is inhabited by around 7000 people, making it far more densely populated than its larger neighbour.
There are no cars on Peng Chau, and you can walk around it easily in an hour. Climbing the steps up to Finger Hill (95m), the island’s highest point, and topped with the winged Chinese-style Fung Ping Pavilion, offers some light exercise and excellent views. To get to it from the ferry pier, walk up Lo Peng St, turn right at the Tin Hau temple, containing a century-old