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CREAMY ARTICHOKE VINAIGRETTE

You can make a wonderful, thick, and creamy vinaigrette by putting some of the confit artichokes into a blender or food processor with some of the artichoke oil, plus a little red wine vinegar. This vinaigrette gains great sweetness and complexity from the artichokes. It is terrific drizzled over a piece of grilled chicken or a little salad.

LEEK CONFIT

MAKES 4 PIECES

2 leeks, cut an inch above green part, roots removed (be sure to remove tough or dry, papery outer layers)

1 teaspoon mustard seeds

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

2 star anise pods or pieces

3 cloves garlic

½ fresh bay leaf or 1 dried leaf

Kosher salt and whole black peppercorns

About 2 cups blended oil (50 percent canola, 50% extra-virgin olive),as needed

Halve the leeks lengthwise and place cut-side down on a sheet of parchment inside a roasting pan just large enough to hold the four halves in a single layer. Add the mustard, cumin, and fennel seeds, star anise, garlic, bay leaf, about 2 teaspoons kosher salt, and 15 or 20 black peppercorns. Barely cover with blended oil. Cover the top with another sheet of parchment, pressing gently down onto the surface of the oil.

Cover the pan with a lid or aluminum foil. Braise in a 375°F oven until very tender, about 1 hour and 20 minutes. Cool to room temperature. If you will not be using all the leek pieces right away, transfer the leeks with all of their oil to a sterilized jar. Press a square of plastic wrap directly onto the surface of the oil. Place another square of plastic over the rim of the jar and top with the lid or a rubber band. Every time you use some of the confit, replace the square of plastic that touches the oil, and use a perfectly clean fork or tongs each time to prevent cross-contamination from other surfaces in your kitchen.

PRESERVING HYGIENE

Use care when making any of the vegetable confits or the candied fruits. Save olive and pickle jars, or any large glass jar. Sterilize the jar with boiling water, then drain upside down on a clean towel until perfectly dry. After sterilizing, handle the outside of the jar only. When the confit vegetable or candied fruit is finished cooking, cool it quickly and place it in the clean jar while the confit is still warm (but not hot, or you risk breaking the jar). Once the confit is in the jar, continue the quick-cooling process by immersing the jar in cold water. The more quickly you cool the food, the better it will keep. Cut a square of plastic wrap and press it down on top of the oil’s or syrup’s surface. Then, since most jar tops are not truly airtight once the vacuum seal has been broken, place another square of plastic over the mouth of the jar and twist on the cap (or secure with a rubber band). When you are ready to retrieve a piece of vegetable or fruit, or a spoonful of the confit oil for a vinaigrette, always use a perfectly clean spoon. If you set the spoon down on a cutting board or use it to stir something, grab a clean spoon to dip back into the jar.

LADOLEMONO

MAKES ABOUT ¾ CUP (REALLY SHOULD BE DOUBLED OR TRIPLED)

¼ cup fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon dry Greek oregano

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

In a bowl, combine the lemon juice, mustard, oregano, ½ teaspoon kosher salt, and a generous grinding of pepper. Whisk to blend the mixture completely and, whisking all the time, drizzle in the olive oil. This sauce will separate; whisk or shake in a jar before using.

DRIED LEMON ZEST

Using a Microplane zester, remove the zest from any quantity scrubbed and dried lemon or other citrus fruit—lime, orange, ruby-red grapefruit—without picking up any of the white pith. Spread the zest out on a baking sheet and place on a windowsill or any dry place. Let it dry overnight; all of the bitter oil in the skin evaporates and you are left only with concentrated lemon flavor. This can become an instant gremolata, but of course you can use fresh-grated lemon zest if you