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don’t have it on hand. The Microplane, by the way, makes it significantly easier to remove the fragrant and flavorful zest without picking up the bitter white pith beneath.

CRETAN SPICE MIX

Mix together 1 teaspoon each of cumin, fennel, and mustard seeds along with 3 cardamom pods and 10 peppercorns. Toast the spices in a 350°F oven or a toaster oven for 5 to 10 minutes. Cool, transfer to a spice grinder, and grind to a powder.

GRILLED ONIONS

Slice peeled Spanish or sweet onions crosswise about ¼ inch thick, keeping the slices together. Brush with olive oil and season liberally with kosher salt and pepper. Grill on a medium-hot charcoal or gas grill, or a ridged cast-iron griddle pan, until slightly char-marked and soft. Toss in a bowl with a drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil and fresh lemon juice, at which point the onion slices will fall apart into a jumble of rings.

ROASTED BELL PEPPERS

Using tongs or a long fork, hold a whole pepper directly in the flame of a gas stove, turning, until blackened and flaking all over. Transfer to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. Let stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Slip off the skin, and remove seeds, white ribs, and stems.

RED WINE & FETA VINAIGRETTE

MAKES 1¼ CUPS

½ cup red wine vinegar

1 small onion, sliced and grilled (facing page)

6 basil leaves

1 teaspoon picked thyme

¼ cup crumbled feta cheese

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

6 cloves garlic, smashed

2 shallots, thickly sliced

2 tablespoons dry Greek oregano

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon coarsely cracked black pepper

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

In a food processor, combine the vinegar, onion, basil, thyme, feta, mustard, garlic, shallots, oregano, salt, and pepper. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.

LEMON-DILL VINAIGRETTE

MAKES ¾ CUP

½ cup fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

3 cloves garlic, smashed

1 small shallot, sliced

1 tablespoon kosher salt

Generous grinding of black pepper

¾ cup extra-virgin olive oil

In a food processor, combine lemon juice, dill, mustard, garlic, shallot, salt, and pepper. With the motor running, drizzle in the olive oil until smooth.

VINAIGRETTES:

HOT OR COLD, BROKEN OR EMULSIFIED

Most vinaigrettes can be used hot or cold, and the temperature affects not just their flavor but also the way they interact with the food. A broken vinaigrette, one that has not been machine-emulsified in a blender or food processor, makes a lovely plate sauce, whether you warm it up in a pan or just drizzle it onto hot food. An emulsified vinaigrette makes a smoother, more refined dressing.

WHITE ANCHOVY VINAIGRETTE

MAKES 1¾ CUPS

Use this wonderful, rustic, and chunky vinaigrette either warm or cold. Makes a great “plate sauce” for cooked protein and vegetables.

Cured white anchovies, sometimes labeled as boquerónes, are available at well-stocked deli counters, Italian groceries, and on the Internet. If you can’t find them, you can substitute high-quality salt-cured anchovies (be sure to soak them in cool water or milk for 10 minutes, then rinse carefully but well to remove excess salt).

4 white anchovies

4 shallots, thickly sliced

1 tablespoon small, picked sprigs dill

1 tablespoon small, picked sprigs parsley

8 leaves fresh mint

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 teaspoon dry Greek oregano

1 cup distilled white vinegar

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

In a small food processor, combine the anchovies, shallots, dill, parsley, and mint. Pulse until finely chopped but not puréed. Transfer to a bowl.

Add the mustard, oregano, and vinegar. Whisk together and, whisking all the time, drizzle in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Since this is a broken vinaigrette, it will separate quickly. Whisk again to bring it together just before serving.

RED WINE–BLACK PEPPER VINAIGRETTE

MAKES 1¼ CUPS

½ cup red wine vinegar

1 small Grilled Onion (page 270)

6 leaves basil

1 teaspoon