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In this glaze, charring the onion reinforces the open-flame flavor of the grill. The result reminds me of a refined Mediterranean barbecue sauce. It works perfectly with any kind of grilled meat, poultry, or game. Keep in mind that the glaze will thicken as it cools, so remove it from the heat before it seems ready. It will cool to the perfect consistency.

FOR THE GRILLED QUAILS

4 quails, dressed or partially boned

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

4 large sprigs rosemary

8 large sprigs thyme

16 large leaves fresh mint

1 cup red wine

¼ cup balsamic vinegar

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 shallot, roughly chopped

2 cloves garlic, smashed and chopped

2 fresh bay leaves or 4 dried leaves

Pinch dry Greek oregano

2 sprigs rosemary

2 tablespoons honey, preferably thyme honey

FOR THE ONION & RED WINE GLAZE

1 Spanish or sweet onion, thickly sliced and separated into rings

2 cups red wine

1 cup red wine vinegar

¼ cup raspberry vinegar

1½ cups water

½ cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons honey, preferably thyme honey

1 fresh bay leaves or 2 dried leaves

1 sprig rosemary

Extra-virgin olive oil

Rinse the quails well in cold water, and dry thoroughly with paper towels. Season inside and out with kosher salt and pepper. Stuff each quail’s cavity with 1 sprig of rosemary, 2 sprigs of thyme, and 4 mint leaves.

Make the marinade: in a container, combine the wine, vinegar, olive oil, shallot, garlic, bay leaves, oregano, rosemary, and thyme honey. Place the quails in the marinade, turning to cover, and press a large sheet of plastic wrap over the quails to exclude any air. Marinate for at least 2 hours, but not more than 6, turning over halfway through. Return the quails to full room temperature if you have held them in the refrigerator.

Meanwhile, make the glaze: in a blistering hot skillet filmed with a little oil, char the onion rings, tossing until blackened in several places, and transfer to a medium-sized pot. Add all the remaining glaze ingredients, bring to a boil, and reduce the heat to a simmer. Reduce the liquid until it thickens enough to coat the back of a spoon. Remove the glaze from the heat and strain through a sieve, pushing all the liquid out of the onions. Reserve the onions.

Preheat a charcoal or gas grill, or ridged cast-iron grill pan, until hot. Remove the quails from the marinade, season with kosher salt and pepper, and grill, moving the quails around a little if flames spring up (but don’t be afraid of a little flame). Turn the quails over after 2 to 3 minutes, and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes until firm and char-marked.

Transfer the quails to the pan of glaze and turn to coat them all over. Transfer to a platter with the onions and all the pan juices. Drizzle with a little olive oil.

BRAISED QUAIL WITH FENNEL & APRICOTS

SIGOVRASMENA ORTYKIA ME MARATHO KAI VERIKOKA

SERVES 4

This is a refined dish, not as rustic as many of the tomato-based braises elsewhere in this chapter. The anise flavor of the fennel pairs brilliantly with the apricots to create an elegant sauce all in one pan. This dish illustrates how a little refinement can produce exquisite results and endless possibilities. Have fun and be prepared to be blown away by something you produced with your own hands.

4 dressed quails

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

2 tablespoons blended oil (90 percent canola, 10 percent extra-virgin olive)

½ Spanish or sweet onion, roughly chopped

½ bulb fennel, roughly chopped

1 stalk celery, roughly chopped

2 sprigs rosemary

½ cup white wine

½ cup metaxa (rose-scented Greek brandy)

1½ tablespoons white vinegar or champagne vinegar

2 cups water

Scant tablespoon Dijon mustard

12 plump, dried apricots

1½ teaspoons honey

1 tablespoon Garlic Purée (page 264) and/or cold, unsalted butter

Rinse the quails in cold water and pat completely dry, inside and out. Season all sides and the cavities with kosher salt and pepper. In a wide, heavy pot or Dutch oven, warm the blended oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is very