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Add the vegetables and rosemary to the pot and reduce the heat slightly. Wilt the vegetables until tender, about 4 to 6 minutes. Deglaze the pot with the white wine, metaxa, and vinegar and let it reduce completely. Add the water and mustard. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and partially cover the pot. Simmer for 30 minutes, occasionally skimming off any scum. Add the apricots and honey, and simmer until the quails are very tender, about 20 to 35 minutes. (Check to be sure the water has not cooked away and add a bit more if necessary.)

Transfer the quails to a warm platter. Add half the braising liquid to half the vegetables and a couple of the apricots and purée, using an immersion or standard blender. Pass the puréed mixture through a fine sieve or the finest disk of a food mill, and return the mixture to the original braising liquid. Swirl in the Garlic Purée and/or cold butter until fully incorporated. Season to taste and pour the mixture over the quails.

VENISON STEW

ELAFI STIFADO

SERVES 4 TO 6 AS A PLATED ENTRÉE, OR MORE FAMILY-STYLE, AS PART OF A LARGER SPREAD, WITH POTATOES, RICE, OR ORZO

This stew, as with all braises, benefits texturally from the muscular, marbled meat. The long braises allow the natural collagens to break down, resulting in a fork-tender consistency. Luxury cuts like the saddle or the rack should be reserved for roasting or grilling. This dish is part of the “poverty cooking” tradition of Greece, where every cut of the animal is used and the cooking technique is tailored to suit.

2 tablespoons blended oil (90 percent canola, 10 percent extra-virgin olive)

1¼ pounds venison leg meat, cut into 1-inch cubes

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

20 small, whole cipolline onions, pearl onions, or baby shallots, peeled

3 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cup red wine

¼ cup red wine vinegar

2 fresh bay leaves or 4 dried leaves

6 juniper berries

4 cloves

2 cinnamon sticks

4 quarts water

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons honey, preferably thyme honey

2 teaspoons dry Greek oregano

2 sprigs thyme

1 large sprig rosemary

8 fresh figs, quartered

2 small parsnips, peeled and cut into large chunks

1 tablespoon Garlic Purée (page 264) or cold, unsalted butter

In a large, heavy pot or Dutch oven, warm the oil over medium-high heat. Season the venison liberally with kosher salt and pepper, and sear on all sides for 3 to 5 minutes. Add the onions and sauté for 1 minute. Add the tomato paste and stir for 1 minute, then deglaze the pot with the red wine and vinegar and allow the liquid to evaporate completely. Add the bay leaves, juniper berries, cloves, cinnamon, water, mustard, honey, oregano, thyme, and rosemary. Bring the mixture to a boil, then reduce the heat and partially cover. Simmer briskly for about 30 minutes, until around one third of the liquid evaporates. Add 8 of the fig pieces and the parsnips, and simmer for another 30 minutes.

Check the meat. If it is tender, add the remaining figs to warm (continue cooking for 20 to 30 minutes more, if not). Season with salt and pepper, and serve.

VENISON SAUSAGE

LOUKANIKO APO ELAFI

MAKES 9 2-OUNCE SAUSAGES, PERFECT FOR MEZE

This is a play on a Cypriot sausage called tseftelia. Rather than using sausage casing, these fresh sausages are held together with caul fat, the lining of a pig stomach. I love caul fat—it’s basically a weblike sheet of translucent fat that melts away as it cooks. Once you start using it, I guarantee it will change the way you cook. After all, what isn’t better wrapped in dissolved fat? Caul fat is typically purchased frozen, so you will have to plan ahead. It’s best to soak the caul fat overnight in salted water and squeeze dry before using. However, you may substitute a sausage casing if caul fat is unobtainable.

Note: If you don’t have a spice mill, substitute 1¼ teaspoon ground fennel and ¾ teaspoon ground cumin for my spice mixture.

2 (¼-inch-thick) slices Spanish or sweet onion

Extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher