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How to Roast a Lamb_ New Greek Classic Cooking - Michael Psilakis [84]

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6 more painted sheets of phyllo, fitting them into the base of the dish and rotating each sheet 1 inch to the right, again letting all the edges overhang. Prick the bottom in a few places and place on a baking sheet to catch any dripping butter.

Bake the flat stack for 9 to 10 minutes and the baking-dish pastry for about 15 minutes, until both are golden brown. (Depending on the humidity, both may be kept, uncovered at room temperature, for a couple of hours or even overnight.)

In a large, heavy pot, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the shallots and cook until softened, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the scallions and spinach, and cover the pan for a minute, to begin wilting the spinach. Toss for 1 to 3 more minutes, to wilt without melting completely. Season liberally with kosher salt and pepper. Thoroughly stir in the Greek Béchamel Sauce, dill, ½ cup graviera, and ½ cup feta.

Spoon the very thick, hot mixture into the prepared pan of overhanging phyllo and smooth it level. Scatter the remaining feta and graviera cheeses and crumble the extra, flat stack of phyllo in rough shards over the top. If you are not serving it immediately, you may keep the dish warm in the oven for up to 10 minutes before serving.


If you’re a fan of mac and cheese, combine the creamed spinach mixture (above) with 8 cups cooked elbow macaroni, ¾ cup crumbled feta, and ¼ cup grated graviera cheese. Turn into a 9 x 12-inch or similar-sized gratin dish and top with some toasted bread crumbs (homemade or, in a pinch, store-bought) and another 1¼ cups grated graviera. Bake at 350°F until warmed through, and then broil for a minute to brown the top.


For individual servings of creamed spinach in a phyllo shell: cut the creamed spinach mixture in half. Make two 4-sheet, flat stacks of butter-painted phyllo. Cut one of the stacks into four smaller squares (to do this, you’ll have to trim the larger rectangle into a square first). Fit one of the smaller 4-sheet squares down into each of four 4- to 5-ounce ramekins, with the edges overhanging. Prebake the ramekin containers and the flat pile of phyllo (opposite) until golden and crisp. Just before serving, fill the phyllo ramekins with hot creamed spinach and top with crumbled shards of the extra stack of phyllo. This is fantastic garnish for the Steak with Bone Marrow Htipiti (page 66).

TWICE-COOKED GIGANTE BEANS

GIGANTES PLAKI

MAKES 2½ QUARTS

Gigante beans are a perennial favorite side dish at Greek parties. The dish requires the beans to be cooked twice, so save some time by chopping the vegetables in a food processor. To prevent the onion from becoming a purée, add it after the carrot and celery are partially chopped.

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 large Spanish or sweet onion, finely chopped

2 large carrots, finely chopped

2 stalks celery, finely chopped

3 fresh bay leaves or 6 dried leaves

¼ cup tomato paste

2 pounds dried gigante beans (large limas/habas grande), soaked in water overnight

Water as needed

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

½ cup Garlic Purée (page 264)

2 cups crumbled feta cheese

9 whole scallions, thickly sliced

1 cup coarsely grated graviera cheese

In a large pot, warm the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrots, celery, and bay leaves and cook to soften without browning, about 3 to 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and stir for 1 minute. Add the drained beans and enough fresh water to cover everything by about 1 inch. Bring to a boil and add 1 tablespoon of kosher salt and a generous grinding of pepper. Reduce the heat, partially cover, and simmer until the beans are soft, about 45 minutes to 1½ hours. Check occasionally, and add a little water if the level drops below the surface of the beans.

Drain the beans, transferring all the liquid back into the pot and the bean mixture to a large bowl; reserve.

Place the liquid over medium-high heat and reduce until very thick. (This will take some time.) To the beans, add the Garlic Purée, feta, scallions, and just enough of the reduced liquid to lightly coat the beans. Fold together

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