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Preheat the oven to 400°F. Transfer the beans to one large dish or several small gratin dishes. Top with the graviera and bake just until warmed through and the cheese is melted, about 25 to 30 minutes.

POTATOES, OLIVES & CAPERS WITH ANCHOVY VINAIGRETTE

PATATES, ELIES, KAPARI ME LADOXYDO ANJOUYAS

SERVES ABOUT 15, AS A SIDE DISH, AS PART OF A LARGER SPREAD

Don’t crowd the pan, or the potatoes will steam instead of browning. To avoid this, use a 12-inch sauté pan, wok, Dutch oven, or heavy soup pot, and cook in batches. To achieve a golden brown surface, the trick is to add a little butter to the olive oil: as the butter solids caramelize, the vegetables begin to brown. If you cook in batches, however, wipe the pan clean after each one. Serve hot or warm.

2 pounds fingerling potatoes, scrubbed

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

3 to 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1¼ cup small, picked sprigs parsley

½ cup small, picked sprigs dill

18 whole caperberries

½ cup capers

18 mixed green and black olives, pitted and split

12 whole scallions, thickly sliced

About half the recipe of White Anchovy Vinaigrette (page 273, optional) or any of my other vinaigrettes

Put the potatoes in a large pot of generously salted cold water and place over high heat. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer gently until just crisp-tender, about 7 to 9 minutes. Drain the potatoes and spread out on a plate. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and up to overnight. Cut into rustic, bite-size chunks and season with kosher salt and pepper.

In a very large skillet, sauté pan, or pot, warm the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is very hot, add the potatoes (no crowding!). Roast the potatoes, shaking the pan, for several minutes, until most pieces turn a golden color. Add the herbs, caperberries, capers, olives, and scallions and shake the pan for 1 minute more, just to wilt the herbs and scallions. Add the White Anchovy Vinaigrette and warm through; transfer to serving platter and serve immediately.

Add some crumbled feta to the last batch of potatoes just before they’re done, then fold all together.

If you have leftover fish from, for example, the Striped Bass Plaki, fold chunks of fish into this dish and serve at room temperature.

OCTOPUS WITH CHICKPEA SALAD

OKTAPODI ME REVYTHOSALATA

SERVES 6 TO 8

Octopus is perhaps one of the most recognized of Greek dishes, but many people are afraid of it because they think it’s difficult to cook. The technique in this recipe solves that problem—it comes out beautifully tender. Once you have this technique down, you can add diced octopus to a cold seafood salad, or a bowl of pasta with tomato sauce, or risotto.

1 (4- to 6-pound) octopus, cleaned, whole legs only

Kosher salt and cracked black pepper

Blended oil (50 percent canola, 50 percent extra-virgin olive), as needed

6 whole cloves garlic, peeled

2 fresh bay leaves or 4 dried leaves

¼ teaspoon red chile flakes

1¾ cups Chickpea Confit (page 266)

2 cups cooked black-eyed peas

½ small red onion, roughly chopped

8 scallions, green part only, thinly sliced

10 large, plump sun-dried tomatoes, cut into thick strips

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

1 tablespoon finely chopped dill

to ½ cup Red Wine–Black Pepper Vinaigrette (page 273) or 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus 1½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Ladolemono (see page 270)

Small handful torn fresh herbs, such as dill, mint, and/or parsley

Sear the legs in batches of two, to avoid overcrowding the pan. Season the legs liberally with kosher salt and pepper. Place a large skillet over the highest heat and let it get smoking hot. Film the pan with a little blended oil and add two of the legs, tentacle-side down. Sear, turning, to a reddish brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a Dutch oven or roasting pan and sear the remaining legs, returning the pan to superhot each time.

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Add the garlic, bay leaves, and chile flakes and cover with the lid or aluminum foil. Braise for 1