Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [1]
Total fish catch (2008): 1.3 million tonnes
Percentage of Icelanders who check the weather forecast daily: 70%
* * *
Return to beginning of chapter
Getting Started
* * *
WHEN TO GO
COSTS & MONEY
TRAVELLING RESPONSIBLY
TRAVEL LITERATURE
INTERNET RESOURCES
* * *
Nothing quite prepares you for a trip to Iceland. In the past, visitors have gone to experience a weekend of wild nightlife or a fortnight of pristine scenery, and have left again with expensive credit-card bills. These days, Iceland’s become a top honeymoon destination, and is just waking up to the possibilities of adventure tourism, with skiing, white-water rafting, kayaking, snowmobiling and a host of other wild activities available. Reykjavík’s Friday-night drinking and the Land of Fire and Ice cliché remain compelling drawcards, and the country’s recent economic troubles mean that, for the time being at least, it’s never been cheaper to visit.
A little planning is the best way to ensure you find the remote, stunningly beautiful fjords, waterfalls and geysers, dig out the best pubs and clubs, and uncover the country’s hidden gems – from luxurious spas to ends-of-the-earth-style wilderness camping – all on whatever budget you can afford.
Iceland is a very seasonal destination, and planning ahead will mean you don’t spend hours driving to see a puffin colony that migrated out to sea months previously, or get stuck waiting for a bus that never comes. Although the short summer season (June to August) offers the widest choice of activities and destinations, an off-season visit can be magical and gives you the benefit of having the top tourist attractions entirely to yourself.
Return to beginning of chapter
WHEN TO GO
Iceland has a very distinct and short-lived tourist season, which runs from June to August. During this time you’ll have the best weather, incredibly long days, the pick of tours and excursions, and the best choice of accommodation. On the downside, you’ll also experience huge crowds at the biggest attractions, and at times the Ring Road will feel like a countrywide carousel where the fairground horses have been replaced by shiny grey hire cars.
* * *
See Climate Charts for more information.
* * *
September and May can be good months to travel, with generally good weather and far fewer tourists. Public transport will not be on a full schedule at these times, however; campsites will be closed; and, if you’re hiking, snow may not clear from high passes until well into July.
* * *
IF YOU DON’T LIKE THE WEATHER NOW…
Although the Icelandic summer is short, the days are long and the climate is generally mild. Daytime temperatures hover around 12°C to 15°C, with lows of about 5°C overnight. May and June are the driest months, but coastal areas, particularly in the south and west, are prone to rain at any time. Thanks to the moderating effects of the Gulf Stream, winters are surprisingly mild, and it’s often warmer in Reykjavík in midwinter than in New York or Zürich. Be prepared for fierce, wind-driven rain, gales and fog, however, and shrieking winds and icy blizzards in the highlands. The clearest and coldest winter weather is generally around Akureyri and Mývatn in the central north. You’ll find a daily weather forecast in English at http://en.vedur.is, but if you’re in any doubt just refer to the old local saying: ‘If you don’t like the weather now, wait five minutes – it’ll probably get worse.’
* * *
Outside high season everything slows down. From late August rural attractions can start to close, by early September buses revert to a severely reduced winter schedule, and by the end of the month the days are getting noticeably shorter, tours are almost nonexistent and many museums, attractions and guest houses outside Reykjavík and Akureyri have closed. Listings throughout the book give details of opening times, though, and despite reduced facilities it’s well worth considering an off-season trip to see mighty waterfalls frozen still, experience the aurora borealis (see the