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Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [2]

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boxed text), ski, snowmobile or ice-fish, or just luxuriate in a steaming hot pool surrounded by snow. And everywhere you go you’ll get an especially warm welcome from the locals. Another benefit is that accommodation costs drop substantially from about mid-September to mid-May, when you’ll get up to 40% off the cost of a high-season hotel room and a 20% to 30% reduction in the rates of most guest houses. If you’re planning to travel around the country in the low-season you’ll need to hire a car, and you should check road conditions locally as rural roads and mountain passes can be closed due to snow.

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DON’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT…

A sleeping bag – even if you’re not camping, you can save a packet by opting for a bed without linen at hostels, guest houses and some hotels. A blow-up pillow, pillow case and nonfitted sheet are also handy.

A large memory card or plenty of film for your camera – neither are cheap to buy locally.

Swimsuit and towel – for those glorious natural hot springs, geothermal pools and hot pots (outdoor hot tubs).

Rain gear and thermals – if you’re planning to hike, cycle or hitch, don’t dream of travelling without them.

A credit card – Icelanders wouldn’t know what to do without plastic.

A sense of humour – for those days when fog and low cloud shrouds everything in your path or you’re holed up in a hut while a summer blizzard rages outside.

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COSTS & MONEY

Iceland has traditionally been an expensive destination, but the recent financial crisis (see the boxed text) has changed all that. At the time of writing, exchange rates were extremely favourable for tourists. But the economic situation is still up in the air, and of course those tourist-friendly rates could change at any time.

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HOW MUCH?

Guest-house accommodation d Ikr10,000-14,000

1L unleaded petrol Ikr185

Large glass of Egil’s beer Ikr700

Whale-watching trip Ikr8000

Icelandic knitted jumper Ikr10,000

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Iceland is an almost cashless society – Icelanders use their credit and debit cards for almost every transaction, so you don’t need to make large cash withdrawals in order to get around.

The cheapest accommodation option in Iceland is camping, but if you don’t fancy a night under canvas you can keep costs down by choosing sleeping-bag accommodation in guest houses. A bed in a guest house or farmhouse will cost roughly Ikr2500 to Ikr4000 for sleeping-bag accommodation and Ikr10,000 to 14,000 for a double room with made-up beds. Hotel room prices start at around Ikr14,000/18,000 for a single/double in high season, with prices dropping by up to 40% in low season. Families or groups can get cheaper deals by finding multiple-bed rooms or, in rural areas, stay in self-contained cottages or cabins. You can overnight in wonderful timber summer cabins (sleeping up to six people), with kitchen, lounge, bathroom, and barbecue deck and prices starting from around Ikr11,000 per cabin per night.

Eating out in Iceland can be expensive unless you’re prepared for an overdose of fast food. Inexpensive, filling but largely unhealthy meals are available at the ubiquitous grill bars in petrol stations, where you’ll get a burger or fried chicken, chips and a drink for about Ikr700. Alternatively, you can fill up in a fast-food pizza joint for around Ikr1400. To eat well you’ll need to cook for yourself or be prepared to pay for the privilege. Fish and lamb are the main-course staples at most Icelandic restaurants, with fish dishes costing about Ikr1800 to Ikr2800 and lamb dishes anywhere from Ikr2500 to Ikr4000. For those on a budget, one helpful tip is to eat your main meal in the middle of the day, when lunchtime buffets or tourist menus can be great value.

Hiring a car gives you freedom to visit out-of-the-way attractions; sharing the hire with other travellers can keep expenses down and begin to rival the cost of bus passes. The cheapest hire cars cost around Ikr20,000 per day – book well ahead. Most hire cars are not insured to drive on the country’s mountain F roads.

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