Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [101]
Just behind Húsið is a small maritime museum, Sjóminjasafnið á Eyrarbakka ( 483 1082; Túngata 59; admission to both museums Ikr500; 11am-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep), with displays on the local fishing community. Its main exhibit is the beautiful, tar-smelling, 12-oared fishing boat, Farsæll.
The wild, sandy coastline is a fine place to observe migrating birds, and you’ll often see seals loafing about on the rocks.
Another of Eyrarbakki’s claims to fame is that it’s the birthplace of Bjarní Herjólfsson, who made a great sea voyage in AD 985 and was probably the first European to see America. Unfortunately, Bjarní turned back and sold his boat to Leifur Eiríksson, who went on to discover Vinland and ended up with all the glory.
The large fenced building to the east of the village is Iceland’s largest prison, Litla-Hraun.
Sleeping & Eating
There’s a rudimentary campsite ( 661 7002; sites per person Ikr500) on a patch of scrub at the western end of the village, with toilets and tap water.
Rein ( 693 3543; www.rein-guesthouse.is; Þykkvaflöt 4; s/d Ikr10,000/14,000; year-round, bookings necessary in low season) This calm, quiet guest house has three rooms in its wooden-walled attic. Although the creaking timbers and shabby-chic furniture give the house an ancient feel, it was actually only built in 1997! Guests can use the hot tub in the garden, and breakfast is included.
Eyrarbakki Hostel ( 483 1280, 842 2550; www.gonholl.is; Eyrargata 51-53; apt Ikr16,000 plus laundry hire per person Ikr1000; ) Although this place falls under the aegis of the Icelandic hostelling association, it’s unlike any hostel we’ve ever seen. It’s composed of four lovely apartments, all with warm peach-toned walls, wooden floors, fully equipped kitchens (including dishwashers and washing machines) and cosy sitting rooms. At the time of research, it was possible to pay for sleeping-bag accommodation here if the apartments weren’t rented out. However, there were also plans to open a dorm.
Gónhóll ( 483 1280, 842 2550; www.gonholl.is; Eyrargata 51-53; snacks & light meals Ikr800-3000; 1-5pm Fri-Mon May-Sep) Next door to (and owned by) the hostel keepers, this long, low building is an odd combination of craft market, secondhand shop, farm shop and cafe.
Rauða Húsið ( 483 3330; www.raudahusid.is; Búðarstíg 4; mains Ikr1900-3500; 11.30am-9pm Sun-Thu, to 10pm Fri & Sat) Arch-rival of the lobster restaurant in Stokkseyri, this place operates in an old red house, with cheery staff and great fresh seafood. Bacalao and grilled lobster are specialities, and it gets the prize for best dessert name – ‘Þjórsá lava’, a cracked chocolate muffin.
Hafið Bláa ( 483 1000; www.hafidblaa.is; mains Ikr1900-4200; noon-9pm summer) Halfway between Eyrarbakki and Þórlákshöfn, this superb seafood restaurant has a small menu based on the catch of the day, supplemented by trout, salmon and lobsters. The beautifully designed building is like an upturned boat, with Arctic terns and gannets diving from the ceiling. Even if you don’t get a table overlooking the ocean, the sweeping estuary views on the opposite side are equally impressive.
Getting There & Away
There are eight buses between Selfoss and Eyrarbakki/Stokkseyri on weekdays only, the first leaving at 6.50am and the last at 10.55pm.
Return to beginning of chapter
FLÓI NATURE RESERVE
Birdwatchers should head for the estuarine Flói Nature Reserve, an important marshland on the eastern bank of the Ölfusá. It’s visited by many wetland birds – common species include red-throated divers and various kinds of ducks and geese – with the biggest numbers appearing during the nesting season (May to July). There’s a 2km circular hiking trail through the marshes. For more information, contact the Icelandic Society for the Protection of Birds ( 562 0477; www.fuglavernd.is).
The reserve is 3km northwest of Eyrarbakki – you’ll need your own transport.
Return to beginning of chapter
STOKKSEYRI
pop 490
Eyrarbakki’s twin lies east along the shore. It’s another small fishing village, with a tourist emphasis