Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [102]
Sights & Activities
For spooky (if pricey) fun, the first port of call should be Draugasetrið (Ghost Centre; 483 1202; www.draugasetrid.is; Hafnargata 9; adult/12-16yr Ikr1500/990; 1-6pm Jun-Aug), on the top floor of a huge warehouse in the village centre. A 40-minute CD-guide (in English, French or German) tells you blood-curdling ghost stories in each of the 24 dark, dry-ice-filled rooms. The ghost centre recommends itself to over-12s; it certainly scared our pants off. Round the corner, and run by the same people, is the Icelandic Wonders ( 483 1202; www.draugasetrid.is; Hafnargata 9; adult/12-16yr Ikr1500/990; 1-6pm Jun-Aug) centre, which is in a similar vein but walks you into a world of trolls and elves.
Tots will love the supercute family park Töfragarðurinn Stokkseyri ( 896 5716; v/Stjörnusteina; adult/2-12yr Ikr700/500; 11am-6pm May-Aug), signposted from the centre. Sweet baby animals – Arctic foxes, puppies, piglets, rabbits, lambs and goats – frolic in ridiculously green enclosures. There’s also a big climbing frame, a bouncy castle and a cafe. It’s only titchy, but it’s infinitely nicer than Reykjavík’s zoo Click here.
Kajakferðir Stokkseyri ( 896 5716; www.kajak.is; Heiðarbrún 24; Apr-Oct) offers guided kayaking on the nearby lagoon (Ikr3750 per hour), or out on the sea (two hours Ikr6800, over 14 years only). You can also choose to wander off on a ‘Robinson Crusoe’ – guideless but with a ‘treasure map’ to follow (adult/child six to 14 years Ikr3850/1000). Prices include admission to Stokkseyri’s swimming pool.
Sundlaug Stokkseyrar ( 480 3260; adult/under 18yr Ikr370/free; 1-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Jun–mid-Aug, 5-9pm Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun mid-Aug–May) is a fine example of the swimming-pool genre, with water slide and hot tubs.
About 6km east of Stokkseyri is Rjómabúið á Baugsstöðum (Baugsstaðir Creamery; 486 3369; adult/child Ikr300/free; 1-6pm Sat & Sun Jul & Aug), an old dairy cooperative (1905–52) that still has its original machinery. Interestingly, most of its produce was sold to England – so some readers’ grandparents may have eaten butter from here!
Sleeping & Eating
Campsite ( 661 7002; per person Ikr500) There’s a grassy little camping ground off Dvergasteinar, with toilets and running water.
Gaulverjaskóli Hostel ( 551 0654, 865 2121; gaulverjaskoli@hostel.is; s/d/tr/q Ikr4000/5800/7150/9250; Feb–mid-Nov) A brand-new hostel, opened in 2009. Its current keepers have poured their energy into renovating this former school into a clean, quiet hostel with a spacious separate kitchen block. It’s based in a tiny hamlet marooned in a vast expanse of flat agricultural land, 10km from Stokkseyri along the coastal road.
Guesthouse South Coast ( 695 0495; www.stokkseyri.com; Eyjasel 2; s/d/tr Ikr4200/7300/8650) Another new sleeping choice, Guesthouse South Coast is owned by stained-glass artist Ella Rósinkrans. Its rooms are easy on the wallet, and for budget travellers without a car, it’s more conveniently located than the hostel.
Kvöldstjarnan (Evening Star; 483 1800; www.kvoldstjarnan.com; Stjörnusteinum 7; s/d Ikr5900/9100) Opened in September 2007, this family-run guest house still has that fresh-out-of-the-box feel. Its five bright, white rooms come with washbasins and fluffy feathery duvets, and there’s a small lounge area and sparkling kitchen. The owner’s father has created an impressive garden, in spite of strong ocean breezes and salt-laden air. Breakfast is Ikr1000.
Við Fjöruborðið ( 483 1550; www.fjorubordid.is; Eyrabraut 3a; mains Ikr1900-4700; noon-10pm daily Jun-Aug, 6-9pm Mon-Thu, 5-9pm Fri, noon-10pm Sat, noon-9pm Sun Sep-May) This upmarket seafood restaurant on the shore has a reputation for serving the best lobster in Iceland. The legendary lobster soup costs Ikr1820 and is worth every penny. The decor is quite distinctive – old flagstones, fishermen’s glass floats, black tablecloths – and in summer