Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [117]
On the cliffs west of the golf course, there’s a little monument (Map Click here) to the 200 people who converted to Mormonism and departed for Utah in the 19th century.
Several perilous tracks climb the steep slopes around Herjólfsdalur, running along the top of Norðklettur to Stafnsnes (Map Click here). The ascent is exhilarating, but there are some sheer drops. A gentler walk runs south along the western coast of the island, passing above numerous lava caves where local people hid from the pirates in 1627. At Ofanleitishamar (Map Click here), hundreds of puffins nest in the cliffs, and you can often get within metres for close-up photos.
STÓRHÖFÐI
A windy meteorological station has been built on Stórhöfði, the rocky peninsula (Map Click here) at the southern end of Heimaey. It’s linked to the main island by a narrow isthmus (created by lava from Helgafell’s eruption 5000 years ago), and there are good views from the summit. It’s possible to scramble down to the boulder beach at Brimurð (Map Click here) and continue along the cliffs on the east coast, returning by the main road just before the airport. From June to August the sea cliffs at Lítlihöfði (Map Click here) are a good place to watch puffins.
LANDSKIRKJA
The lava stopped just short of the Landskirkja (Map Click here) in the middle of town. The church’s carved wooden doors feature scenes from Vestmannaeyjar’s history.
Activities
Heimaey’s large indoor saltwater swimming pool (Map Click here; adult/child Ik300/150; 6.15am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun Jun-Aug, 6.15am-8am, noon-1pm & 2.30-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat & Sun Sep-May) has hot pots and a gym.
A new PADI company IsDive ( 694 1006; www.isdive.is) has just been set up in the Vestmannaeyjar – contact them for prices.
Golfers can hire clubs at the 18-hole golf course (Map Click here; 481 2363; www.gvgolf.is) in the Herjólfsdalur valley; green fees are Ikr3500.
In summer you can see locals practising the ancient art of sprangan (cliff-swinging; Map Click here) – an essential skill for egg-collectors and puffin-hunters – on the cliffs between the harbour and Herjólfsdalur.
Tours
From May to August, Viking Tours (Map Click here; 488 4884; www.vikingtours.is; small boat harbour, off Ægisgata; adult/9-14yr €30/20) runs daily two-hour boat tours, leaving at 10.30am and 3.30pm. They bounce right around the island, slowing for the big bird-nesting sites on the south coast, and sailing into the sea-cave Klettshellir, where the boat driver gets to show off his saxophone skills! His wife, Unnur, runs recommended two-hour bus tours at 1pm in summer (possible out of season if prebooked). You can also arrange whale-watching and fishing trips, and 3½-hour boat rides around Surtsey (€60) on request. If nobody’s about, track staff down in nearby Café Kró.
The friendly folk at Hreiðrið guest house run walking tours (Map Click here) when there’s a group, and two-hour bus tours (Ikr2900) of the island on Tuesday and Wednesday from June to August: you’ll get to sample bread cooked in the still-smoking ash of Eldfell.
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THE 1973 ERUPTION
Without warning, at 1.45am on 23 January 1973 a mighty explosion blasted through the winter’s night as a 1.5km-long volcanic fissure split the eastern side of the island. The eruption area gradually became concentrated into a growing crater cone, which fountained lava and ash into the sky.
Normally the island’s fishing boats would have been out at sea, but a force-12 gale had prevented them from sailing the previous afternoon. Now calm weather and a harbourful of boats allowed the island’s 5200 inhabitants to be evacuated to the mainland. Incredibly, there was just a single fatality.
Over the next five months more than 30 million tonnes of lava poured over Heimaey, destroying 360 houses and creating a brand-new mountain, the red cinder cone Eldfell. One-third of the town was buried beneath the lava flow, and the island