Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [118]
As the eruption continued, advancing lava threatened to close the harbour and make the evacuation permanent – without a fishing industry, there would have been no point in returning. In an attempt to slow down the inexorable flow of molten rock, firefighters hosed the lava with over six million tonnes of cold sea water. The lava halted just 175m short of the harbour mouth – actually improving the harbour by creating extra shelter!
The islanders were billeted with friends and family on the mainland, watching the fireworks and waiting to see if they could ever go home. Finally, the eruption finished five months later at the end of June. Two-thirds of the islanders returned to face the mighty clean-up operation.
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Festivals & Events
The country’s biggest outdoor festival is the three-day Þjóðhátíð (National Festival; www.dalurinn.is; admission Ikr12,900), held at the festival ground at Herjólfsdalur over the first weekend in August. It involves music, dancing, fireworks, a big bonfire, gallons of alcohol and, as the night progresses, lots of drunken sex (it’s something of a teen rite of passage), with upwards of 11,000 people attending. Extra flights are laid on from Reykjavík, but you should book transport and accommodation far in advance.
Historically, the festival was first celebrated when bad weather prevented Vestmannaeyjar people from joining the mainland celebrations of Iceland’s first constitution (1 July 1874). The islanders held their own festival a month later, and it’s been an annual tradition ever since.
Sleeping
Heimaey has a campsite, several hotels and loads of guest houses, but they fill up fast after the ferry arrives. Most places drop their rates by around 20% in winter.
BUDGET
Campsite (Map Click here; 692 6952; sites per person Ikr700; Jun-Aug) Cupped in the bowl of an extinct volcano, this dandelion-dotted camping ground has hot showers, a laundry room and cooking facilities. The wind can get strong.
Sunnuhöll HI Hostel (Map Click here; 481 2900; www.hotelvestmannaeyjar.is; Vestmannabraut 28b; sb dm/s/d Ikr2100/3700/5800) We have a soft spot for tiny, homely Sunnuhöll hostel, with its seven plain, neat rooms. The cheapest accommodation is in a mixed attic dorm. There’s a guest kitchen and sitting room, and you can do laundry in Hótel Mamma across the road. Reception is at Hótel Þórshamar.
Gistiheimilið Hvíld (Map Click here; 481 1230; www.simnet.is/hvild; Höfðavegur 16; sb Ikr2500, s/d Ikr4000/7500) A friendly family owns this large green house, which has smallish guest rooms with shared bathroom, a TV lounge and a peaceful garden. There’s no breakfast, but there is a guest kitchen where you can prepare your own.
Gistiheimilið Hreiðrið (Map Click here; 481 1045, 699 8945; http://tourist.eyjar.is; Faxastígur 33; sb/s/d Ikr2500/4600/8900) Run by the helpful volcano-show people, Ruth and Sigurgeir, this winning guest house has a family feel. Features include wall-to-wall puffins, a well-stocked kitchen, a cosy TV lounge and bike hire. Breakfast (Ikr1000) is available year-round. They also run walking and bus tours in summer, and can run you to the far end of the island for Ikr800.
Gistiheimilið Árný (Map Click here; /fax 481 2082; Illugagata 7; sb/s/d Ikr4000/7000/12,000) A charming couple runs this neat suburban house, which also offers guests a kitchen and washing machine, and packed lunches by arrangement. Upstairs rooms have epic views, and the owner prays for a sound sleep for all her guests!
Gistiheimilið-Hótel Mamma (Map Click here; 481 2900; www.hotelvestmannaeyjar.is; Vestmannabraut 25; s/d/tr Ikr6000/8500/11,300) This is a cheery, peaceful Hótel Þórshamar–owned guest house with spacious rooms, all with TV and shared bathroom. There are two guest kitchens and a laundry in the basement. The attic steps are extremely small and steep – avoid if you’re at all clumsy.
Gistihúsið Hamar (Map Click here; 481 2900; www.hotelvestmannaeyjar.is; Herjólfsgata 4; d/tr Ikr10,700/13,900; Jun-Aug; ) Also owned by Þórshamar, this place has large, modern