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The whole island can be comfortably explored on foot. If you need a taxi, call 698 2038.

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SURTSEY

In November 1963, the crew on the fishing boat Ísleifi II noticed something odd – the sea south of Heimaey appeared to be on fire. Rather than flee, the boat drew up for a closer look – and its crew were the first to set eyes on the world’s newest island.

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ALTERATION TO THE VESTMANNAEYJAR FERRY

At the time of writing, a new harbour was being built at Bakki, 27km south of Hvolsvöllur. This is to be the new terminal for the Vestmannaeyjar ferry (which currently departs from Þórlákshöfn) from 2010. Details on sailing times and connecting buses were still to be confirmed; contact any tourist centre, or the ferry company Eimskip ( 481 2800; www.eimskip.com) and the BSÍ bus station ( 562 1011; www.bsi.is) to check the latest transport details.

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The incredible subsea eruption lasted for 4½ years, throwing up cinders and ash to form a 2.7 sq km piece of real estate (since eroded to 1.4 sq km). What else could it be called but Surtsey (Surtur’s Island), after the Norse fire giant who will burn the world to ashes at Ragnarök.

It was decided that the sterile island would make a perfect laboratory, giving a unique insight into how plants and animals colonise new territory. Surtsey is therefore totally off limits to visitors (unless you’re a scientist specialising in biocolonisation). Just so you know, though, in the race for the new land, the blue-green algae Anabaena variabilis got there first.

You can get a vicarious view of Surtsey’s thunderous birth by visiting the Volcano Show in Reykjavík, or the Volcanic Film Show on Heimaey. You can also charter a flight over the islands with Flugfélags Vestmannaeyja (left), and Viking Tours run boat trips around it if chartered in advance.

And here’s a little conundrum for you: what are fossils doing on this newly minted island?

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West Iceland

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BORGARBYGGÐ

HVALFJÖRÐUR

AKRANES

BORGARNES

UPPER BORGARFJÖRÐUR

ELDBORG

SNÆFELLSNES

STYKKISHÓLMUR

BREIÐAFJÖRÐUR

STYKKISHÓLMUR TO GRUNDARFJÖRÐUR

GRUNDARFJÖRÐUR

ÓLAFSVÍK

RIF & HELLISSANDUR

SNÆFELLSJÖKULL NATIONAL PARK

SOUTHERN SNÆFELLSNES

DALIR

EIRÍKSSTAÐIR

BÚÐARDALUR

SAGA FARMS

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Geographically close to Reykjavík yet miles and miles away in sentiment, west Iceland is in many ways a splendid microcosm of what the country has to offer beyond the capital. Yet surprisingly many tourists have somehow missed the memo, preferring instead to zoom around the Ring Road in search of other wonders. It’s good news for you though – you’re likely to have much of this under-appreciated region to yourself.

The long arm of the Snæfellsnes is west Iceland’s star attraction. Capped by a glacial fist at its tip, the peninsula is a veritable artist’s palette of sulphuric yellows, snowy whites, mossy greens, scorched charcoals, Caribbean blues and surprising beachy peach tones that all blend together to form something truly inspiring. New Age gurus believe that there are greater forces at play here – and Jules Verne agreed; his Journey to the Centre of the Earth starts at Snæfellsjökull’s icy crown.

While tourists undoubtedly gravitate towards the natural highlights, Icelanders hold west Iceland in high regard for its canon of local sagas. Two of Iceland’s best-known tales, the Laxdæla and Egil’s Sagas, take place along the region’s brooding waters. Snorri Sturluson, of Prose Edda fame lived and died in Borgarbyggð, while Viking Eiríkur Rauðe (Erik the Red) plotted missions to the end of the earth from his farmstead in little-visited Dalir. Today, only cairns and ruins remind us of this bygone era, but you can gain historical insights from a couple of must-see museums.

With nature and history as the region’s two biggest drawcards, west Iceland comes up trumps because it offers a little bit of everything and proves that you don’t have to travel long distances to uncover the real Iceland.

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HIGHLIGHTS

Tramp