Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [121]
Follow the green carpet of velvety moss through the striking crags between Hellnar and Arnarstapi
Wander around charming Stykkishólmur and picturesque Grundarfjörður, passing a whimsical world in between
Sail past swooping puffins and ancient Viking hideouts on a breezy boat ride through the innumerable islands of Breiðafjörður
Step back into Saga times at the impressive Settlement Centre in Borgarnes
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Getting There & Around
If driving, take Rte 1 west out of Reykjavík to reach west Iceland. Most roads are paved and driving conditions are good. Akranes is located within Reykjavík’s public transport infrastructure, so the connections are frequent. Long-haul buses from the capital service Borgarnes, Reykholt and Búðardalur, and daily buses to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula stop in Stykkishólmur, Grundarfjörður, Ólafsvík and Hellissandur. If you’re tight on time, follow the signs through the Hvalfjörður tunnel (below).
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BORGARBYGGÐ
Decidedly positioned beyond Reyjavík’s suburban sprawl, Borgarbyggð (www.borgarbyggd.is) and the surrounding area feels suddenly pastoral despite being a mere 30-minute drive from the capital. Although lacking the mystique and majesty of the Snæfellsnes Peninsula further on, the region’s finger-like fjords and stone-strewn highlands offer plenty of day-trip fodder for those who need a quick fix of country living.
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HVALFJÖRÐUR
If you have plenty of time (and a private vehicle) follow Rte 47 along the scenic 80km road around Hvalfjörður. Those with a need for speed should instead head straight through the 5.7km-long tunnel (Ikr800) that runs beneath its waters. Cyclists aren’t permitted to use the tunnel.
On the southern side of the fjord you’ll find dramatic Esja (914m), a great spot for wilderness hiking. The trail to the summit begins at Esjuberg, just north of Mosfellsbær, and ascends via Krehólakambur (850m) and Kistufell (830m).
At the head of the fjord, Glymur, Iceland’s highest waterfall (198m), can be reached by following the turn-off to Botnsdalur until you reach the end of the road. From there, it’ll take a couple of hours to reach the chute. Try to visit after heavy rain or snow-melt – in a dry period it can be a little underwhelming.
As you join the north shore of the fjord you’ll pass Iceland’s main whaling station – a place of great controversy – Click here for more about whaling in Iceland.
The church at the Saurbær ( 433 8952) farmstead, further along, is worth a look for its beautiful stained-glass work. Built in memory of Hallgrímur Pétursson, who composed Iceland’s most widely known religious work, 50 Passion Hymns, the church is only slightly more modest than Reykjavík’s Hallgrímskirkja, also named after the composer.
Hvalfjörður has several places to spend the night. Those with smaller wallets should try the adorable Guesthouse Kiðafell ( 566 6096; www.dagfinnur.is/kidafell; sb/s/d Ikr2800/6000/9000; May-Sep), which offers modern bathrooms and pleasant accommodation covered in framed photos. Breakfast (Ikr1000) and horse riding (two hours Ikr6000) are also available.
Hótel Glymur ( 430 3100; www.hotelglymur.is; May-Oct s/d/ste €185/260/380, 15% discount in winter; ), on the northern side of the fjord near Saurbær, is a favourite. A veritable cache of contemporary amenities, this stylish retreat features double-decker rooms, giant picture windows, heated floors, abstract knick-knacks and a hot pot named one of the ‘top five hot tubs in the world’ by the New York Times. Even if you aren’t staying here, it’s worth stopping by for some delicious homemade cake while learning about the fjord’s surprising history (over 20,000 American and British soldiers parked their submarines here during WWII).
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AKRANES
pop 5600
Set under the imposing concave plateau Akrafjall (572m), the pleasant town of Akranes lies at the tip of the peninsula separating