Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [127]
Orientation
Our Snæfellsnes section begins in Stykki-shólmur on the populated northern coast. It’s the region’s largest town and a logical base for exploring the peninsula. From there we move west along the northern shoreline passing several smaller townships before circling around the glacier (the heart of Snæfellsjökull National Park) and returning along the quieter southern coast.
Getting There & Around
As with the rest of rural Iceland, the best way to explore the Snæfellsnes Peninsula is by private vehicle (Click here if you plan to use some of the minor regional roads), but if funds are limited, there are bus services from Reykjavík to the Vatnaleið transport junction near Stykkishólmur (where you’ll find connections to the various townships on the peninsula). Click here for detailed transport information. Both Iceland Excursions and Reykjavík Excursions offer day trips from Reykjavík to the Snæfellsnes Peninsula (around Ikr17,000; Click here). TREX (www.bogf.is) offers several bus passports through the region (starting at around Ikr13,800); SBA/Reykavík Excursions does not.
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STYKKISHÓLMUR
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The charming town of Stykkishólmur, the largest on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula, is built up around a natural harbour protected by a dramatic basalt island. It’s a picturesque place with a laid-back attitude and a sprinkling of brightly coloured buildings from the late 19th century. With a comparatively good choice of accommodation and restaurants, and convenient transport links, quaint Stykkishólmur makes an excellent base for exploring the region.
Information
The tourist information centre ( 433 8120; www.stykkisholmur.is; Borgarbraut 4; 10am-6pm Jun-Aug) is located in the same recreational complex as the swimming pool (Click here). The friendly sports-centre staff can offer tourism tips when the information centre is closed. Internet connections are available for Ikr100 per 15 minutes at the tourist information office and at the library ( 438 8160; Hafnargata 3; 3-7pm Tue-Thu & 1-5pm Fri Jun-Aug, 2.30-6.30pm Mon-Thu & noon-5.30pm Fri Sep-May).
Sights & Activities
Stykkishólmur’s quaint, maritime charm comes from the cluster of wooden warehouses, stores and homes orbiting the town’s harbour. Most date back about 150 years and many are still in use. One of the most interesting buildings (and the oldest) is the Norska Húsið (Norwegian House; 438 1640; norkshus@simnet.is; Hafnargata 5; admission Ikr500; 11am-5pm Jun-Aug), now the municipal museum. Built by trader Árni Þorlacius in 1832, the house has been skilfully restored and displays a wonderfully eclectic selection of local antiques. On the second floor you can see the typical layout of an upper-class home in 19th-century Iceland.
Looking decidedly out of place among the clutter of quaint maritime houses, Stykkishólmur’s futuristic church, Stykkishólmskirkja ( 438 1560; 1-5pm) is a striking white structure with a sweeping bell tower that looks like a ship’s vent or a giant vertebra. The interior features hundreds of suspended lights and a large painting of the Mother and Child floating in the night sky. Enthusiasts of oddball architecture will be glad to know that there are heaps of funky churches throughout Iceland (Click here).
For relaxing views of the town and the bay, head up the hill to the Library of Water (Vatnasafn; www.libraryofwater.is; Bókhlöðustígur 17; admission free; 1-6pm early May–Aug). Housed in the old municipal library, this hallowed space flooded by natural light features a permanent exhibit by noted American artist Roni Horn. Twenty-four