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glass pillars are scattered throughout the room, each one filled to the brim with locally sourced glacier water. Light is reflected and refracted through the aqueous tubes, and adjectives in both English and Icelandic are inscribed into the delicate floor. It’s the perfect place to curl up with your journal or play a game of chess (provided); just don’t forget to take off your shoes. Although the space is closed during the colder months, travellers can arrange a visit via email, or they can pick up the keys at the town library Click here.

Get the back story on the neighbouring lava flows at the newly built Volcano Museum (Eldfjallasafn; 433 8154; www.eldfjallasafn.is; admission Ikr600; 11am-5pm Jun–mid-Sep), housed in the town’s old cinema. The brainchild of vulcanologist Haraldur Sigurdsson, the museum features art and artefacts relating to the study of eruptions and their devastating effects. Haraldur himself is usually hangin’ around offering additional titbits from his 40 years in the field. Ask about the geologically themed day trips (eight hours; Ikr13,000), which circle the peninsula.

Also worth exploring is the basalt island of Súgandisey, which features a scenic lighthouse and offers grand views across Breiðafjörður. You can get to the island by walking across the stone causeway from the harbour.

Try the tangle of water slides or one of the soothing hot pots at the town’s geothermal swimming pool ( 438 1372; adult/under 14yr Ikr380/150; 7.05am-10pm Mon-Fri, 10am-7pm Sat & Sun) located in the municipal sports complex. If you’re lucky, you might catch the local basketball team (Iceland’s best) practising their tricks.

Perhaps the most enjoyable activity in Stykkishólmur is a pleasant boat tour of the alluring islands that freckle the brooding Breiðafjörður (see following Tours section for more info).

Tours

Seatours (Sæferðir; 438 1450; www.seatours.is; Smiðjustígur 3; 8am-8pm mid-May–mid-Sep, 9am-5pm mid-Sep–mid-May) runs a variety of boat tours, and offers sea angling equipment rentals (Ikr6600). Our favourite trip is the ‘Unique Tour’ – a 2¼-hour boat ride (adult/under 16 years Ikr5950/free), which takes in postcard-worthy views of the bay and its myriad islands. Kodak moments abound as the boat passes colonies of puffins and eagles, and haunting basalt formations (keep your ears peeled for the gruesome legend of ‘hanging rock’!). Towards the end of the trip a net is lowered into the sea, and pretty soon there’s wiggly shellfish ready to be devoured raw (absolutely delish – we promise).

For a bit more luxury, try a private boat tour (from Ikr95,000; four person max) – visit the booking office for details. Seatours also operates the Baldur car ferry, which stops in lovely Flatey on the way to the Westfjords. Day trips and overnight stays on Flatey can be easily arranged at the Seatours bureau. Most activities run from mid-May to mid-September. At the time of research, Seatours’ whale-watching trips (based in Ólafsvík) were not operating; however, this may change in the future.

Festivals & Events

If you’re passing through the area during the third weekend in August, you’ll be treated to festive bridge dancing and a bevy of live bands during Stykkishólmur’s annual Danish Days (‘Danskir dagar’ in Icelandic) – an event which pays tribute to the town’s Danish roots.

Sleeping

Campsite ( 438 1075; mostri@stykk.is; sites per person Ikr800, electricity Ikr400; ) Managed by the golf course nearby, this ‘five-star’ campsite is one of Iceland’s swankiest spots to pitch a tent.

Stykkishólmar HI Hostel (Youth Hostel Sjónarhóll; 438 1095, 861 2517; stykkisholmur@hostel.is, www.hostel.is; Höfðagata 1; sb member/nonmember Ikr2100/2800, d Ikr5600; May-Sep) Situated in a wonderfully wobbly house (one of the town’s oldest), this bastion of backpackers is a tad cramped, but has a great communal vibe – none of the doors have locks. There are dorms and doubles aplenty (no private bathrooms), and there’s a handy kitchen for self-caterers.

Hótel Breiðafjörður ( 433 2200; www.hotelbreidafjordur.is; Aðalgata 8; s/d Ikr9500/15,200