Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [129]
Hótel Stykkishólmur ( 430 2100; www.hringhotels.is; Borgarbraut 8; s/d Ikr17,500/20,000, discounts in winter; ) Slightly out of the centre and set on a hill, this boxy hotel feels almost as out of place as the modern church next door. Rooms are spread across two wings – the old hall has the views, but the new annexe has modern furnishings. Free golf and tasty dinners (mains Ikr2900 to Ikr4500) sweeten the deal.
A slew of quaint B&Bs have popped up in the town’s residential area:
Heimagisting Ölmu ( 438 1435, 848 9833; almdie@simnet.is; Sundabakka 12; sb/s/d Ikr3200/6500/8000, breakfast Ikr1000)
Heimagisting Egils ( 820 5408; Lágholt 11; s/d Ikr7000/10,000; Jun-Aug)
Heimagisting María Bæringsdóttir ( 438 1258; fax 438 1245; Höfðagata 11; s/d incl breakfast Ikr7500/9500) An old favourite.
Eating
Nesbraud ( 438-1830; Nesvegur 1; snacks from Ikr195; 8am-6pm) At the crossroads on the way out of town, this small bakery is a good choice for a budget-friendly breakfast or lunch. Stock up on sugary confections like kleinur (traditional twisty doughnuts) or ástar-pungur (literally ‘love balls’; fried balls of dough and raisins).
Einar með Öllu (Aðalgata; mains from Ikr250 noon-8pm Jun-Aug) Skip the greasy grill at the local petrol station and swing by this friendly pylsuvagninn (wiener wagon) for the best hot dogs in town. It’s a great spot to up your caloric intake, especially if you missed the ubiquitous pýlsur stands in Reykjavík (see the boxed text). When you grab your grub to go, don’t forget to ask the cashier about the wagon’s punny name (it’s a great li’l play on words!)
Narfeyrarstofa ( 438 1119; Aðalgata 3; mains from Ikr1090; 11.30am-11pm) Well, the jig is up – everyone’s figured out that this atmospheric joint is the best place in town for a bite, including all the tour groups. It’s definitely worth sampling the delicious assortment of cakes and burgers; just don’t stop by during prime lunching hours ’cause you won’t get a table!
Fimm Fiskar ( 436 1600; Frúarstígur 1; mains Ikr1400-4900; 11am-11pm) The Five Fishes is housed in a chalet-style abode just up the street from Narfeyrarstofa, it’s main competition. New management has kicked things up a notch, offering a colourful assortment of fresh fish from the pier. Dishes are on the small side, but get decent reviews nonetheless.
Self-caterers will be sated at the Bónus supermarket ( noon-6pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-6pm Sat & Sun) near the swimming pool, although you can also head down to the pier around 6pm to buy the latest catch from the docking fishermen. The local Vin Búð is located across the main road from the Bónus.
Getting There & Away
BOAT
The car ferry Baldur ( 438 1450; www.seatours.is) operates between Stykkishólmur and Brjánslækur in the Westfjords (three hours), via Flatey. From 10 June to 20 August there are daily departures from Stykkishólmur at 9am and 3.30pm, returning from Brjánslækur at 12.15pm and 6.45pm. During the rest of the year, there is only one ferry per day, leaving Stykkishólmur at 3pm (11am on Saturdays), returning at 6pm, and often not stopping in Flatey at all. Click here if you plan to stop on Flatey along the way. Adult fares to Brjánslækur are Ikr3850; vehicles cost an additional Ikr3850. A roundtrip ticket from Stykkishólmur to Flatey costs Ikr5300. During the summer/winter, children under 16 years are free/50% off.
Buses in the Westfjords are scheduled for relatively seamless connections with the ferry; Click here for details.
BUS
There are at least two daily buses running to/from Reykjavík (2½ hours) from mid-June to August. One daily bus continues out of season except on Wednesday and Saturday. To reach town, you must get off at the Vatnaleið stop and switch to reach Stykkishólmur. Buses also link Vatnaleið to Grundarfjörður, Ólafsvík and Hellissandur.