Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [130]
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BREIÐAFJÖRÐUR
Stykkishólmur’s jagged peninsula pushes north into stunning Breiðafjörður, a gaping waterway (‘breiðafjörður’ means ‘broad fjord’) separating the torpedo-shaped Snæfellsnes from the looming cliffs of the distant Westfjords.
According to local legend, there are only two things in the world that cannot be counted: the stars in the night sky and the craggy islets in the bay. Despite the numerical setback, those who visit beautiful Breiðafjörður can count on epic vistas – idyllic tapestries of greens and blues – and its menagerie of wild birds (puffins, eagles, guillemots etc).
The Seatours office, which is based in Stykkishólmur (see opposite), runs a variety of tours around the bay, and also dispenses several handy brochures that detail the region’s local bird life and its intriguing Viking history. Travellers who are staying in Grundarfjördur can enquire about trips at Hótel Framnes.
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WISHING AT HELGAFELL
It is commonly believed that those who ascend humble Helgafell (below) will be granted three wishes, provided that the requests are made with a pure heart. However, it isn’t as simple as merely climbing the hill and thinking happy thoughts. You must follow three important steps in order to make your wishes come true:
Step 1: Start at the marked grave of Guðrún Ósvífursdóttir, heroine of an ancient local saga.
Step 2: Walk up to the Tótt (the chapel ruins) never uttering a single word, and (like Orpheus leaving Hades), never looking back along the way.
Step 3: Once at the chapel ruins, you must turn and face east while wishing. And remember – never tell your wishes to anyone or they won’t come true.
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Flatey
Of Breiðafjörður’s innumerable islands, adorable Flatey (literally ‘flat island’) is the only one with year-round inhabitants: two families embroiled in an age-old feud that rivals the Capulets and Montagues. In the 11th century, Flatey was home to a literary monastery, and today the charming island is a popular layover for travellers heading to (or from) the Westfjords. Push the slo-mo button on life, and enjoy a windswept afternoon amid brightly coloured catalogue houses and swooping arctic terns.
If you are crossing Breiðafjörður aboard the Baldur ferry Click here and would like to have a look around the island, you must take the first ferry of the day, disembark, and board the second daily ferry to your final destination (boats only pause on the island for around five minutes as they cross the fjord). For those travelling by car, it is possible to send your vehicle across the bay (at no additional charge) while staying behind in Flatey. Note that the twice-per-day ferry service only runs between 10 June and 20 August (in May and September you will have to spend the night, and in the colder months you may have to spend several days).
Sleeping on Flatey is a cinch. Both of the island’s farms – Krákuvör ( 438 1451) and Læknishús ( 438 1476) – are about 300m to 400m from the pier and offer modest accommodation (around Ikr3000) in summer. You can also pitch a tent at Krákuvör (Ikr700) or sleep at Hótel Flatey ( 422 7610; info@hotelflatey.is; d from Ikr18,200; mid-Jun–mid-Sep), which has comfy rooms and great views over the fjord.
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STYKKISHÓLMUR TO GRUNDARFJÖRÐUR
The scenic stretch of land between Stykkishólmur and Grundarfjörður is filled with myth and mystique. About 5km south of Stykkishólmur is the holy mountain Helgafell (73m), once venerated by worshippers of the god Þór. Although quite small, the mountain was so sacred in Saga times that elderly Icelanders would seek out the hill near the time of their death. Today, locals believe that wishes are granted to those who climb the mount (see the boxed text, above). In the late 10th century, Snorri Goði, a prominent Þor worshipper, converted to Christianity and built a church at the top of the hill. The church ruins are still prominent in the terrain. The nearby farm of the same