Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [131]
About 15km west of the intersection of Rte 54 and Rte 58 (the road to Stykkishólmur) lies the sweeping lava field at Berserkjahraun (Berserkers’ lava field). Crowned by looming mountains, this lunar landscape gets its name from the Eyrbyggja Saga – see opposite. Those with a little extra time on their hands will enjoy the winding drive along the 2WD-friendly Rte 558. Known as Bersekjahraunsvegur (try saying that three times fast!), this scenic stretch ambles through an endless expanse of charcoal blacks, sulphur yellows and mossy greens. Pick a flat patch and pitch a tent – not only is this a prime spot for wilderness camping, it’s one of the region’s best-kept secrets (until now!). If you’re looking for a bit of comfort, there are a few lodging options in the area as well (see opposite).
On the northeastern edge of Berserkjahraun is the farmstead at Bjarnarhöfn ( 438 1581; www.bjarnarhofn.is; museum admission Ikr700; 9am-7pm) – a must for every traveller with a taste for adventure (literally). Smell that? Yup, it’s rotting shark flesh – the farm is the region’s leading producer of hákarl (putrid shark meat), a traditional Icelandic dish. The on-site museum details the fragrant history of this culinary curiosity by displaying restored shark fishing boats, harpooning tools, and explaining the fermenting process. Each visit to the museum comes with a complimentary nibble of the delicacy in question. Some say it tastes like a sponge dipped in ammonia; we thought it was somewhat similar to old cheese. Before you leave, ask about the drying house out back. If you’re lucky you’ll see hundreds of dangling shark slices being attacked by zealous flies (you’ll be glad you tried the shark meat before visiting the drying house!). To reach the farm, follow the signposts down a series of 2WD-friendly gravel roads leading away from Rte 54.
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GRUNDARFJÖRÐUR
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Spectacularly set on a dramatic bay, little Grundarfjörður is surrounded by sugar-loaf peaks often shrouded in wispy, cotton-puff fog. Preferring prefab to wooden construction, the town feels like a typical Icelandic fishing community, but the tourist facilities are good and the surrounding landscape can’t be beat.
A tourist information office, cafe, internet point and heritage museum all rolled into one, the Saga Centre (Eyrbyggja Heritage Centre; 438 1881; www.grundarfjordur.is; Grundargata 35; 10am-6pm May-Sep; ) is a must for every visitor. Sip a fresh double latte while chatting with the friendly employees, update your blog (internet Ikr200 for 15 minutes), and check out the museum’s detailed exhibits (museum Ikr500, includes 20-minute tour) about the town’s French-influenced history and the advent of the boat engine. The museum also features a life-sized model of a turn-of-the-century Icelandic home. You’ll be shocked to learn that this bite-size abode would sleep around eight people. Icelandic films and photo slideshows often play in the on-site screening room during high season.
In the summer months, it’ll be hard to tear yourself away from Grundarfjörður without ascending the majestic Kirkjufell (463m), guardian of the town’s northern vista. Ask the Saga Centre to hook you up with a guide (around Ikr5000 per guide) – three spots involving a rope climb make it dangerous to scale the mountain without assistance. The whole adventure should take no more than four hours. After your hike, rest your muscles in one of the soothing hot pots at the local swimming pool (adult Ikr380; 8am-8pm, closed for lunch).
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GONE BERSERK
Long ago, according to the Eyrbyggja Saga, a farmer from Hraun grew weary from having to walk around the jagged lava flows to visit his brother at the farm in Bjarnarhöfn. Returning from a voyage to Norway, he brought back two berserkers – insanely violent fighters who were employed as hired thugs in Viking times – to work on his farm, but to his dismay one of