Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [132]
To the shock and horror of both Snorri and the farmer, the two berserkers quickly set to work and managed to rip a passage straight through the treacherous moonscape. Rather than honouring his promise, the farmer trapped the berserkers in a sauna and murdered them, allowing Snorri to marry his daughter.
Today, a path through the ‘Berserkjahraun’ can still be seen, and recently a grave was discovered in the vicinity containing the remains of two large men.
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Sleeping
Campsite ( 894 5309; tent Ikr400 plus per person Ikr200, caravan Ikr2000; Jun-Aug) This new campsite, backed by a scenic waterfall, currently shares showering facilities with the public pool nearby. Campers can pay at the Saga Centre, or wait for the ranger to swing by (usually three times a day).
Grundarfjörður HI Hostel ( 562 6533, 895 6533; Hlíðarvegur 15; grundarfjordur@hostel.is, www.hostel.is; sb member/nonmember Ikr2100/2500, s/d Ikr3400/5800, apt Ikr10,500-16,500; ) Although lacking the ramshackle backpacker charm of Stykkishólmur’s hostel, Grundarfjörður’s contribution to the budget category features simple rooms spread across a couple of brightly coloured houses. Swankier digs can be found atop the fish factory along the harbour. Reception is in the red house, at the listed address. Ask the staff about bike rentals, day trips and in-house internet access (Ikr450 per day). Free linen and half-price wi-fi sweetens the deal during the winter months. Note that the hostel closes from 15 December to 15 January – the owners wanna do a little travelling too!
Hótel Framnes ( 438 6893; www.hotelframnes.is; Nesvegur 8; s/d incl breakfast Jun-Sep Ikr13,700/18,000, Oct-May reduced rates) Brand new management has breathed new life into this comfy dockside inn. The reception area is surprisingly modern and top-floor rooms are adorably nestled under eaved roofs. Fish-oriented dishes dominate the restaurant’s menu (mains Ikr2300 to Ikr3700), or you can try to catch your own meal on a hotel-run boat trip in Breiðafjörður (two hours, Ikr3500).
The following accommodation options are located off Rte 54 between Stykkishólmur and Grundarfjörður.
Kverná ( 438 6813; www.simnet.is/kverna; sites per person Ikr7000, s/d Ikr6000/9000) Cosy farm just outside town offering cottage accommodation, horse riding and sightseeing tours.
Suður-Bár ( 438 6815; www.sudurbar.sveit.is; Eyrarsveit; s/d from Ikr8000/12,000) Friendly guest house 8km east of town with pleasant rooms, horse riding and golf. Note that it’s best to access the Eyrarfjall area from the Grundarfjörður side; the dirt road along Kolgrafarfjördur is often too rutty for a 2WD.
Eating
Krákan ( 438 6999; Sæbol 13; mains Ikr1500-3600; 7-1am) Stark and bright, with a cream-coloured piano in the corner, Krákan has a brand new look after it was damaged in a recent fire. Cheap burgers lure the masses – staff could slap on a smile though.
Kaffi 59 ( 438 6446; Grundargata 59; mains Ikr1800-3100; 10am-11pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri, 11am-1am Sat, 11am-11pm Sun; ) This well-worn joint is the place for pizza, sandwiches, ice-cream sundaes and beer, served up in a crumby (both meanings) diner-style building by the main road through town.
A small supermarket ( 9am-10pm Jun-Aug, to 9pm Sep-May) and an N1 petrol station – with the usual grill hut – are within eyeshot of the Saga Centre.
Getting There & Away
The Reykjavík–Hellissandur bus stops here once or twice a day in summer. A bus runs every day except Wednesday and Saturday out of season. The trip from Reykjavík takes 2¾ hours.
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ÓLAFSVÍK
pop 990
Quiet, unassuming and well kept, workaday Ólafsvík won’t win any hearts,