Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [133]
Sights & Activities
Gamla Pakkhúsið (Old Packinghouse; 436 1543; Ólafsbraut; adult/under 16yr Ikr300/free; 11am-5pm Jun–mid-Sep) is an interesting folk museum telling the story of the town’s development as a trading centre. Towards the harbour, the small maritime museum Sjávarsafnið Ólafsvík ( 436 6926; admission free; 9am-6pm Jun–mid-Sep) displays black-and-white pictures detailing the local history.
At the time of research, whale-watching tours had been permanently cancelled due to soaring oil prices. Contact Seatours in Stykkishólmur for updates.
The local swimming pool ( 436 1199; adult/under 14yr Ikr350/200; 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 1-5pm Sat & Sun) is on Ennisbraut.
Sleeping & Eating
Although not as convenient as Stykkishólmur and Grundarfjörður, Ólafsvík has a couple of passable sleeping options. If everything is full you can pitch a tent at the local campsite ( 436 1543, 430 8600; Dalbraut; sites per person Ikr500) or stop by the tourist office – they’ll set you up with a room in a local home (Ikr4000 per person).
Hótel Ólafsvík ( 436 1650; www.hotelolafsvik.is; Ólafsbraut 20; s/d without bathroom €59/79, with bathroom incl breakfast €125/148, 20% discounts in winter; ) A mighty step up from camping, this large hotel has spacious, functional rooms with tiled floors, neutral decor and very little character. Rooms with shared bathroom are in an attached annexe – the accommodation with private facilities is noticeably nicer. The hotel restaurant (mains Ikr2800 to Ikr3500) is popular with tour groups and offers a range of Icelandic meals and pub-grub standards.
Hobbitinn ( 436 1362; Ólafsbraut; mains from Ikr310; 10am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 11.30am-11.30pm Sat & Sun) Dressed up with a shop-window facade, Hobbitinn is merely a fast-food joint specialising in burgers, pizzas and hot dogs. Apparently the owner is quite small and hobbit-like.
There’s also a grill at the Shell petrol station, a good bakery (Bakari; 436 1119; cakes from Ikr220; 7.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat) next to Hobbitinn, and a supermarket at the junction of Ennisbraut and Norðurtangi.
Getting There & Away
In summer, there are one or two daily links (bus 350/350a) between Reykjavík and Ólafsvík, passing through Vegamót (2¾ hours) and continuing on to Hellissandur (15 minutes). There is a bus every day except Wednesday and Saturday in winter. The buses drop off and pick up at the petrol station.
Return to beginning of chapter
RIF & HELLISSANDUR
pop 140 & 390
A mere 6km after Ólafsvík is blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Rif, a harbour village that makes Ólafsvík look like the big city. Swing by Gamla Rif ( 436 1001; Háarifi 3; cakes from Ikr500, fish soup from Ikr1500; noon-8pm Jun-Aug) for tasty coffee and cakes. The owners, two fishermen’s wives, have perfected a variety of traditional snacks and dispense local travel tips with a smile. They make a mean fish soup (from their husbands’ daily catch) if you’re feeling extra-peckish. Scenic Svödufoss, with its trickling chutes and dramatic hexagonal basalt, can be seen in the distance.
Hellissandur, next door, is the original fishing village in the area and has a few more amenities. Snæfellsjökull National Park (right) has a ranger office here, but the opening hours are infrequent and limited; tourists should head to Hellnar for park information, or download a trail brochure from www.ust.is.
The only artificial sight in the area is Sjómannagarður ( 436 6619; Útnesvegur; adult/child Ikr250/free; 9.30am-noon & 1-6pm Tue-Sun Jun-Aug), a small maritime museum with an adorable turf house, loads of old photos and plenty of local memorabilia,