Iceland (Lonely Planet, 7th Edition) - Fran Parnell [134]
About 2km inland from Hellissandur is the lonely church at Ingjaldshóll, the first concrete church in the world (built in 1903). Ingjaldshóll was the setting of the Víglundar Saga. If the church doors are open you can see a painting depicting Christopher Columbus’ apparent visit to Iceland in 1477 (see the boxed text, for more details).
The local campsite ( 436 1543, 430 8600) has basic facilities managed by the info centre in Ólafsvík. For far more comfort, check into the Hótel Hellissandur ( 430 8600; www.hotelhellissandur.is; Klettsbúd 7; s/d incl breakfast mid-May–Aug Ikr16,700/19,200, 20-30% discount Sep–mid-May; ), a well-run place offering bright, modern rooms with contemporary interiors and sparkling bathrooms. The only dining options in Hellissandur are the hotel restaurant (mains from Ikr2500) and the N1 petrol station (open 11am to 9pm).
All buses from Reykjavík to Ólafsvík continue to Hellissandur, stopping at the N1 petrol station.
Return to beginning of chapter
SNÆFELLSJÖKULL NATIONAL PARK
Continuing west from Hellissandur, the scenic Rte 574 skirts the rugged slopes of Snæfellsjökull – the icy fist at the end of the long Snæfellsnes arm. Known as Undir-Jökli, this desolate area offers eerie views of lava spurs sticking straight up through the scree, and, on misty days, when the fog swirls among the peaks, you can easily see how the legends of cantankerous trolls came to life.
As haunting and isolated as this ethereal realm may feel, the looming ice cap was famous worldwide long before it was protected under a national park mandate in June 2001 – Jules Verne used the glacier as the setting for his famous Journey to the Centre of the Earth. In the book a German geologist and his nephew embark on an epic journey into the crater of Snæfells, guided by a 16th-century Icelandic text with the following advice:
Descend into the crater of Yocul of Sneffels, Which the shade of Scartaris caresses, Before the kalends of July, audacious traveller, And you will reach the centre of the earth. I did it.
Arne Saknussemm
Snæfellsjökull
It’s easy to see why Jules Verne selected Snæfell – the dramatic peak was torn apart when the volcano beneath the ice cap exploded and the volcano subsequently collapsed into its own magma chamber, forming a huge caldera. Among certain New Age groups, Snæfellsjökull is considered one of the world’s great ‘power centres’, and it definitely has a brooding presence.
Today the crater is filled in with ice and makes a popular hiking destination in summer. The best way to reach the glacial summit is to approach the peak from the south side of Rte F570 and link up with a snowmobile tour in Arnarstapi (opposite). Route F570’s northern approach (near Ólafsvík) is frustratingly rutty (4WD needed) and frequently closed due to weather-inflicted damage.
Contact the visitor centre at Hellnar (see right) for more information. Do not attempt an ascent without a proper briefing about road conditions and weather forecasts. Note that there is no mobile phone reception from Hellisandur to Lóndrangar.
Öndverðarnes
At the westernmost tip of Snæfellsnes, Rte 574 cuts south, while a tiny gravel track heads west across an ancient lava flow to the tip of the Öndverðarnes peninsula. As the road winds through charcoal lava cliffs you’ll pass Skarðsvík, a perfect golden beach lapped by Caribbean blue waters. A Viking grave was discovered here in the 1960s and it’s easy to see why this stunning spot in the middle of an otherwise desolate area would have been favoured as a final resting place.
After Skarðsvík the track gets much bumpier (still manageable for a 2WD though). Follow the turn-off (left side) through the craggy lava flows to the imposing volcanic crater Vatnsborg, or continue straight on until you hit the dramatic Svörtuloft bird cliffs at the end of the road. A bumpy track runs parallel to the sea connecting the area’s two squat lighthouses. To reach the very tip of the peninsula, go right (north) until